Generally, if you require a piece of furniture you go to a store or two, choose a design you like on a budget you can afford and purchase the item.

As a builder I can’t see myself constructing my own sofa or chairs, but items like bed frames, tables and desks are all things I’ve had a go at, with successful results. Making an item from scratch no matter how simple gives a feeling of achievement you don’t get from store-bought furniture, and if you’ve designed it yourself, even better.

Here’s a desk you might like to have a go at and because the materials and method are simple, maybe change it up and design your own coffee table, dining table, side table or stool. Maybe even a bar leaner.

Tools:

Ruler
Tape measure
Pencil
Drill
Impact driver – screwdriver
28mm Speedbone drill bit / 3mm drill bit
Sand paper
Allen key
Craft knife
45mm screws / 8 gauge
Super coarse plastic

Materials:

24mm Plywood (I’ve used birch)
1 piece at 1600mm long x 700mm wide
2 pieces at 640mm long x 70mm wide
20mm Galvanised water pipe
4 pieces at 660mm long
2 pieces at 540mm long
4 x 20mm x 90 degree quick clamp elbows

I chose birch ply for the desktop as it is strong and stable, the colour is light but can be stained any colour and is relatively easy to finish with oil or polyurethane.

I have the equipment to cut the plywood accurately but suggest getting a joiner to cut your plywood components accurately. With the desktop being 700mm wide I have a 2400mm x 500mm off cut which I can use for another project. It may become shelves or a coffee table, but because of the price it will not go to waste.

I had the galvanised pipe cut by the merchant (Steel and Tube) at a very low cost and it made it easier to transport.

Important to note:

Although the pipe has a nominated size of 20mm, this is the internal diameter of the pipe and the external diameter is 27mm.

Step 1 - Legs

The two pieces of ply (640mm x 70mm) are the base for the legs. Each of these pieces need a 28mm hole drilled through at each end. Mark 35mm in from the side and 35mm in from the end.

Drill a 28mm hole right through the ply.

It would be ideal to drill a 27mm hole, as the pipe diameter would be a perfect fit, but speedbore drill bits don’t come at that size. To make the leg fit tightly, a shim of super coarse plastic is just the right size. Cut a strip of super coarse.

Place in the hole.

Fit 660mm length of pipe into the pipe hole.

Then twist clockwise until the pipe is flush with the other side of the ply.

Repeat for both pieces of ply and all four lengths of the 660mm pipe.

The quick clamp elbows have Allen key threaded grub screws, which clamp firmly to the pipe. Loosen all of the grub screws off so that the pipe can slide into the elbow.

Fit one elbow to each end of the two pieces of 540mm long pipe.

The measure between the two legs fitted to base ply should be 570mm centre to centre.

Fit the other elbow to the end of 540mm pipe and ensure it is 570mm between the two elbow centres before tightening.

Fit the pipe with elbows to the legs and measure to make sure both sides are even before tightening with Allen key.

The measure from the ply to the bottom of the elbow should be 610mm.

Trim off excess super coarse plastic with a craft knife and the legs are ready to fit to the desktop

Step 2 - Fitting to desk top

Lay top on stools using drop sheets or soft cloths so as not to damage the top of desk.

Sit legs in approximate position and measure it from end and edges 30mm.

Face the grubscrews on the elbows to the inside.

Pre-drill 3mm holes at each end of the base ply, approximately 15mm in from edge.

Before fixing the leg to the top, check that the screws are not too long. A screw coming though the desktop is not a good look. 45mm screws are perfect so long as they are not over tightened.

Using an impact driver, or screwdriver, screw the base to the top through the predrilled hole.

Two screws at each end of the base are enough to hold firmly to the top.

Fit the other legs the same.

Turn the desk over and hand sand all of the edges and faces of ply with maximum 220 grit sandpaper.

Desk can be left natural by oiling with teak oil or polyurethane.

Note. The height of the desk is approximately 720mm. Desks and or tables are usually between 710mm and 760mm. If the top is thin, then the desk can be towards the lower height. A standard chair is 450mm to the top of the seat and the general rule of thumb is to have a 300mm gap between the top of the seat and the top of the desk. With adjustable office chairs, a comfortable work height can be achieved by the raising or lowering of the chair.

So try my desk and have a look at how Michelle dressed it up. You can make your own industrial style bespoke table or whatever you dream up. I’ve given you an idea and a method, make it your own.

Cheers,

Cocksy.

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.

Us Kiwis love to use our decks and outdoor areas. Be it for nightly summer barbecues, family and friends’ gatherings or kids parties, our outdoor spaces are special and designed to fit our needs.

We also love our privacy and in residential areas, this is sometimes hard to obtain, especially when neighbouring houses have views into your outdoor spaces. Fences, trees and hedges can go a long way to creating privacy between neighbours but sometimes they just don’t cut the mustard.

The simple answer is to create a screen type barrier between you and your neighbour so that both parties feel comfortable that they are not intruding on each other’s privacy.

The screen I have created, for a family in central Auckland, only became necessary because their neighbours extended and elevated a large extension to the rear of their home and both parties privacy was compromised.

The new living room looks directly onto the deck of my client so the solution became simple. Let’s create a screen.

Tools:

Drop saw
Circular saw
Clamp
Hand plane
Hole saw
Battery drill
Impact driver
Drill bits
Counter sink bit
Hammer
Chisel
Tape measure
Ruler
Pencil
Square
Socket set
Protective eyewear (Glasses)
Hearing protection (Ear Muffs)
Materials:
Posts – Ex 100 x 75 H4 Pine
Coach screws M12 x 160mm S/S
Washers M12 x 3mm round
Or M12 x 50 x 50 x 3mm square

Vitex decking – 140 x 19 machined to varied sizes as per design. I have 4 sizes: 30 x 19, 40 x 19, 95 x 19 and 140 x 19.

Decking screws – 65mm x 10 gauge S/S

Step 1 - Attaching posts to deck

I chose to attach my posts to the deck only as there was an existing concrete path making it difficult to embed them into an in-ground concrete footing. In most cases a screen, much like a fence, would require posts to be set in 600mm deep x 300mm x 300mm concrete footings.

My connection into the deck’s boundary joist is with the use of an M12 x 160mm stainless steel coach screw.

To make a neat job of the connection I chose to flush the head of the screw and washer into the post.

Mark the centre of the screw position on the post.

Square the mark around to the front of the post and mark the centre.

Using a hole saw, slightly bigger than the diameter of the washer, drill into the post approximately 12mm.

Chisel out the hole to the depth of approximately 12mm.

Drill a 13mm hole through the post.

As an alternative, a square washer can be used. These are 50mm x 50mm x 3mm. Mark around the washer and chisel to a depth of 12mm as per the round washer.

Position post and clamp firmly in place, ensuring it is plumb.

Drill into the deck boundary using a 8mm drill bit.

Using a socket wrench fit coach screw and washer and tighten.

Repeat process for remaining posts.

With all of the posts fixed, establish a height and level across all posts.

Using a circular saw and protective safety equipment, cut posts to height.

Use a hand plane (block plane) to erase the edges on top of the posts.

To keep the posts in vertical alignment, a board needs to be attached to the top of the posts. Measure between posts at the bottom.

Screw a board flush to the top of the posts and spaced as per the bottom measures.

If you want to paint the posts, now is the time, before the boards are attached.

Step 2 - Attaching boards to posts

With the top board screwed in place to hold the posts in vertical alignment I have also created a datum for measuring down to the start of the first board as relying on the deck to be level is not accurate enough.

Get the first board straight and level and it’s plain sailing to the top. Each board is spaced with an offcut (19mm) and aligned with the board below before being screwed.

The screws are 65mm S/S decking screws with a counter sunk head.

Pre-drill all holes with a countersunk drill before screwing.

With my four different sized boards the pattern is random, with only the 30mm wide board being used on the edges.

All ends of the boards are erased using the block plane.

It would be ideal to have all of the boards as full length but unfortunately with Vitex, random lengths mean there are joins. Alternate the joined boards with the full boards so that the joins are randomly positioned.

Continue fixing boards in this manner until you reach the top board. The top board can be adjusted up or down to create even gaps or alternatively adjust the gaps in the last few boards by a couple of millimetres to make it to the top board evenly.

With the screen in place I cut and fixed some angle braces between the bottom of each post and a deck joist. This will prevent wind moving the screen out of plumb. If your posts are set in concrete this isn’t required. Cut a 45 degree to one end of the brace.

Measure and cut.

Check before fixing in place.

Pre-drill 6mm holes in both ends of the brace.

Screw to the joist.

Then level and screw the brace to the post.

Use 100mm x 14 gauge galvanised bugle screws. These go in easily with an impact driver and are fast becoming the go to fastener for builders and designers.

And with the neighbours blocked out it’s time to put the barby on.

Cheers,

Cocksy.

Making the most of storage space is important and the key to a good wardrobe design is maximising storage while maintaining accessibility. My kids generally maximise the storage and accessibility of their clothes by hanging them on the floor and the bed. I’ve seen exercise equipment used for this with great results, although using the equipment for its intended purpose becomes a little difficult with frocks, skirts and blouses stacked five high on the “get me skinny so I can fit my summer clothes” machine.

The key to a good wardrobe is the opening. The wider the better and the higher the better is the rule of thumb. To get the best access the opening should go from wall to wall and floor to ceiling. This enables you to see all your clothing and footwear without having to search the dark corners and recesses that you generally find in the wardrobes of older homes.

The wardrobe I have fitted out is an example of an old wardrobe that originally had a set of double doors, one hanging rail, and one shelf. The opening has been widened and heightened to allow maximum access. As every wardrobe is different in size my example is not so much about the sizing but about the design and construction of shelves, draws and rails.

Before you begin construction it is imperative that you have a plan, or at least a sketch. My plan is best illustrated using a pic of the final product.

The design is driven by the client’s requests and requirements. This is for a couple to share so the need for hanging shirts, skirts, pants and trousers is maximised with 2x bays on the right. The bay on the left is for long hanging dresses, robes and the like, and only a small space is required. The shelves above the rails are suitable for shoes. Between the hanging bays a set of shelves and drawers makes the ideal divider and allows the rails to be attached at any height.

If you engaged the services of a cabinetmaker or wardrobe company the components would generally be made of coated MDF called Melamine. This is easy to clean and comes in a range of colours. The same material is used for kitchen carcases and bathroom vanities. Because I am aiming this project at you DIY guys I’ve chosen MDF to construct the wardrobe, as it is easier to work with. I have pre-cut all my components from 16mm MDF.

My suggestion would be for you to work out all the pieces you require and get them cut by a joiner, preferably by a C and C machine. The accuracy of the cutting will make assembly quick and reasonably hassle free.

Material:

16mm MDF cut to size (components)

6mm MDF cut to size (draw bottom)

6mm MDF cut to size (cabinet back)

Wardrobe rail x 2.4m

Wardrobe rail sockets x 3 sets

Draw runners (450mmlong) x 5 sets

40mm x 8 gauge screws

32mm x 8 gauge screws

65mm x 8 gauge screws

16mm x 6 gauge screws

Tools:

Level

Hammer

Ruler

Tape measure

Battery drill 2 and 3mm drill bits

Impact driver – square or Pozi drive bit

Hacksaw

T square or rafter square

Pencil

Jigsaw

Step ladder

Circular saw / hand saw / drop saw

Draw and Shelf Cabinet:

My draw and shelf cabinet is set by the depth and width of the drawers. I’ve chosen 450mm drawer runners which means my drawers will finish at 450mm deep. To allow a little room my cabinet sides are cut to 470mm wide, 20mm more than the drawer depth. As I have a measure of 2700mm from floor to ceiling I have made my cabinet sides 2400mm high and this will allow a shelf to be fitted on top and a 300mm gap between the shelf and the ceiling. The width of the cabinet is determined by the width of the drawers. In this case I have 375mm wide drawers. Drawer runners require 25mm extra than the width of the drawer, so my internal cabinet width is 400mm. My shelves will set the width of the cabinet so these are cut 400mm wide.

To begin, align the cabinet sides side by side and flush each end. (fig. 1). The bottom of the cabinet below the first drawer should sit above the floor a little. I allow 50mm. Mark the position of the bottom shelf on the cabinet sides and square across using T square or rafter square. (Fig. 2).

Determine the positions for your drawer runners. My drawers are 150mm deep including the bottoms x4 and 80mm deep including the bottom x1. The first runners need to be approximately 10mm above the bottom. Then allow the depth of the drawer plus 30mm to the bottom of the next runner, my spacing between runners is 180mm (150mm + 30mm). (Fig. 3).

Each runner requires Three screws to fix to cabinet sides. Pre-drill for all screws using 2mm drill bit.

Mark out for shelves above drawers and pre-drill three holes to hold each shelf in the cabinet sides. (Fig. 4).

Holes, made with the 3mm drill, should be at least 30mm in from edge of cabinet sides to avoid splitting shelves. (Fig. 5).

The top shelf that will fit wall to wall above the cabinet is 200mm wide. As the cabinet is 470mm wide I have marked and cut an angle so that the cabinet sides narrow at the top to allow for this. (Fig. 6).

As I want to cabinet to fit hard back to the wall I need to cut the cabinet sides to allow for the skirting board. This is done by marking and cutting a template. (Fig. 7 - 9).

Transfer the template to the cabinet sides and cut out using the jigsaw. (Fig. 10-11).

Assembly:

Layout the drawer runners, there are lefts and rights, and screw to cabinet sides using 16 x 6 gauge screws into pre-drilled holes. (Fig. 12).

Use a hand screwdriver and be careful not to over tighten. Make sure all drawer runners are screwed on and ready for shelves. (Fig. 13).

The cabinet sides are a mirror image of each other. (Fig. 14).

Attach toe kick to cabinet bottom then attach to cabinet side. Note: It is cut short so as not to hit skirting when fitted. (Fig. 15-16).

Then flip the cabinet side upright and fix the shelves through pre-drilled holes. (Fig. 17-18).

Pre-drill into the shelves using the 3mm drill bit to prevent splitting. (Fig. 19).

Flip the cabinet onto its side with shelves standing vertical and fit the other cabinet side to shelves. (Fig. 20-21).

Lay the cabinet face down to fit 6mm back. (Fig. 22).

The back ensures the cabinet is square and stable. The back is best cut 2mm narrower than the width of the cabinet. This makes it easy to feel the edges and be accurate when attaching the back. Use 32mm 8 gauge screws to fix at approximately 30mm apart. (Fig. 23).

Wardrobe Rails:

The sockets to hold wardrobe-hanging rails can be fitted to the cabinet at this stage. Use a shirt on a hanger to determine the position. (Fig. 24).

For a 600mm deep wardrobe the rail should be 300mm from the back. (Fig. 25). For double hanging allow a minimum of 1000mm between rails. For single long hanging garments 1600mm is allowed.

Before fitting the cabinet to the wardrobe space level a datum line around the wardrobe. (Fig. 26).

This line can be at any height and allows you to measure accurately for shelves and rail fixings. The cabinet needs to be secured to a stud or solid framing behind the plasterboard. Determine where you will be fixing the cabinet to the wall by using a stud finder or tap method to find solid fixing points. Fit cabinet and screw to wall. (Fig. 27-28).

Drawers:

With the cabinet fitted my assembly table is clear to construct the drawers. Each drawer has five components, two sides, a front, a back and a bottom. The sides screw onto the front and the back and require pre-drilled 3mm holes in each end before attaching. (Fig. 29-31).

The drawer bottom is fitted and ensures the drawer is square. (Fig. 32).

Fir the runners to the bottom of the drawers, the wheels of the runners go to the back of the drawer. (Fig. 33).

Drawers can be fitted at this stage. (Fig. 34).

Note: The cabinet internal measurement of 400mm and the drawer measurement of 375mm. (Fig. 35-36).

As there is no framing to hold the rail sockets or a shelf, a full width cleat is required to preform these tasks. (Fig. 37).

This is screwed into the corner studs using 65mm 8 gauge screws. To determine the height measure from the socket on the cabinet to the datum line and copy to side wall for all the rails and shelves. (Fig. 38).

Screw the shelves to the cabinet sides and to the cleats. (Fig. 39).

With all the shelves in place measure the length of the rails and cut using the track saw. (Fig. 40-41).

Fit the rails and you are done. (Fig. 42-43).

A coat or two of acrylic polyurethane can be applied to all surfaces. It’s best to do this before fitting to keep your surfaces clean and make sure they’re easy to clean.

Happy building, and remember to pre-drill before you screw, measure twice and cut once and if at first you don’t succeed get a professional in.

Cheers,

Cocksy.

Ah, summer. It’s the season for barbeques and beers on the deck. Maybe your deck features the latest nine piece outdoor suite? Or does it have a rustic table and bench seats? But what if it had something a little more comfortable to sit or take a nap in? In this ‘how to’ I’ll give you the basic idea for an outdoor couch and show you how to make it rustic, shabby chic or a little nostalgic by using demolition Rimu from an old Villa kitchen. Take a look at the finished couch in this article by GoodHome design contributor Michelle Halford. She’s spruced it up and given it a touch of magic to show how it looks in a real outdoor setting.

The dimensions for my couch were set by the 800 x 800mm squabs that I already had. Three of these squabs dictate that my couch will be approximately 2700mm long and 900mm wide. This allows 150mm for each arm and 2400mm for the squabs.

Materials:

Rustic cladding - pallet or similar

150 x 25 fence palings 1.8m long (x12)

100 x 25 H3 rough sawn x 6.0m

90 x 45 H3.1 gauged K/D x 9.0m

8g x 50mm surefast screws S/S x 1 jar of 200

8g x 65mm surefast screws S/S x 1 jar of 100

1Hg x 100mm wood roofing screws x 12

10g x 100mm S/S screws x 12

Tools:

Battery drill

Battery impact driver

Tape

Ruler

Square

Pencil

Hammer

Drop saw or circular saw

Clamps

Handsaw

3mm drill

Driver bit / square or pozi

Driver bit to suit 14g screws

Nail gun (brad gun)

Galvanised nails to suit

There are four components to the couch with two arms, the base, and the back. The framework for these will need to be accurate even if the cladding is a little rough and rustic.

Cutting list:

Arms from 150 x 25 fence palings.

1. Legs – 575 x 150 cut 4

2. Top and bolt rail – 850 x 150 cut 4

3. Centre rail – 850 x 75 cut 2 (rip paling in half)

4. Spacer – 250 x 100 cut 2

Base from 90 x 45 H3.1 KD

1. 2 at 2410

2. 3 at 670

Slats from 150 x 25 Fence Palings.

1. 760 x 150 cut 11

Back from 100 x 25 (rails)

2. 2 at 2410mm

3. 2 at 290mm

From 90 x 45

1. 2 at 290mm

Construction:

1. Arm Frame:

Each arm is put together as per exploded view. (Fig. 1).

Legs (575 long) need to be marked 50mm up from the bottom, this is the position for the bottom rail. (Fig. 2).

Square a line across and pre drill 2 x holes. (Fig. 3-4).

Screw bottom rail to legs using 65mm screws. (Fig. 5).

Then screw top rail in between legs flush to the top. (Fig. 6).

Using a spacer mark the position for centre rail, pre drill and screw into place. (Fig. 7-8).

Fix spacer to one end to leg and top rail. (Fig. 9).

Framework for one arm completed. (Fig. 10).

Now construct the second arm the same but fir the spacer at opposite end of arm to mirror arm 1.

2. Arm Cladding:

Clad arm with old rustic timber. Pallet wood is a good cheap way to achieve the rustic look although it hasn’t been treated so it won’t last outside for too many years. Start by cladding at the top and front of the arms, ensure the cladding hangs over the frame enough to cover the cladding to be fixed to the sides of the arms. (Fig. 11).

I have used 3 pieces of my Rimu. The middle one is ripped to fir the gap remaining. (Fig. 12).

Measure and cut the cladding for both sides of the arms. The cladding fixed to the rail (the inside of the arm) is approximately 350mm long and the cladding fixed to the outside of arm is approximately 560mm long leaving it 15mm short of the legs. Use a piece of cladding on edge as a spacer to create a slatted look. (Fig. 13).

Finished arm. (Fig. 14).

I used a 32mm nail in a Paslode Brad Gun. A 40mm galvanised jolt head would be the alternative.

3. Base Frame

The base is constructed using the five pieces of 90 x 45 pre cut as per cutting list. Place the two 2410mm rails together and measure to halfway. (Fig. 15).

Mark and square across at this point. Pre drill the rails with 2 x holes at all ends and 2 x holes for centre. (Fig. 16-17).

Layout and screw together. (Fig. 18-19).

Use 10g x 100mm screws. Base together. (Fig. 20).

4. Back Frame

The back needs to be constructed similar to the base but with 2 x 90 x 45 to ends and 2 x 100 x 25 evenly spaced between. Because it’s only a narrow frame it’s easier to construct standing up. (Fig. 21-22).

Screw one side and then flip over and screw the other. Use 65mm screws to fix all components. (Fig. 23).

5. Cladding the back

Clad the back as per the arms with spaces between slats. Cap the top of the back but leave the ends uncapped until after assembly. (Fig. 24).

6. Assembly

Now your four components are ready for assembly. Clamp a fence paling to the inside of the arm at 350mm from the top. (Fig. 25-26).

This is to sit the base on and ensure it is the right height. (Fig. 27).

Using 14 gauge x 10mm screws, screw base to arm, ensure it is 30mm back from the front of the arm. (Fig. 28-30).

Repeat to screw base to other arm. To fit the back, mark 180mm up from the bottom of the back and clamp a block of wood above the mark, repeat for the other end. (Fig. 31-33).

The blocks will rest on the arms and make it easy to screw together. (Fig. 34-35).

Remove clamps and measure and cut end caps to fit the back. (Fig. 36).

Lay out 150 x 25 slats on the base. (Fig. 37).

Ensure you have a slat in a position to catch the edge of the squabs. Screw in place using 2 x 50mm S/S screws at each end of each slat. (Fig. 38-39).

Nearly there. (Fig. 40).

Tip onto the back and attach rustic slats to the front of the base slate approx. 150mm long. (Fig. 41).

Place slats as per arms and back. Tip upright and that is it. (Fig. 42-43).

Add cushions and rest for a while. (Fig. 44).

Cheers,

Cocksy

The horror of a disaster is something we’ve all seen and many of us have unfortunately experienced. The Christchurch earthquakes are still in our memory and they’re a reminder that anything can happen, often when we least expect it. Nothing can prepare us for the tragedy and turmoil that an earthquake, tornado, flood or fire might bring, but the knowledge that we might be without water, electricity, food or communication should prompt us to set aside a few items that are crucial for survival. Lets get a survival kit together.

Water

The average person in the developed world uses around 180 litres of water per day, which is about the same amount of water in a standard hot water cylinder. The water is used for showering, washing clothes, dishes, hygiene, flushing toilets and drinking. For survival, three litres per person per day is the minimum so you’ll want to have at least this amount on hand for each person in your household for three days.

We rely so much on electricity in our homes these days. Electric lighting, heating and cooking are so standard that they’re taken for granted and only thought about when there’s a power outage. Power outages are usually caused by line faults, or during a storm when a tree takes out a power line. With the power out we can do without cooking and heating, but in the darkness of night we often do not cope well at all. Candles, matches and a battery-operated torch are essential to our kit.

Keeping warm

Keeping warm and dry may be a problem if your home has been destroyed by a tornado or cyclone, but generally you’ll be able to find shelter with a neighbour or friend. However, you should add a woollen blanket and a lightweight tarpaulin for each member of the family to the kit just in case. Wool is the best insulator and a woollen blanket next to the skin is the best way to minimise heat loss from our body.

Food

You’ll need to eat to keep your strength up, so keep some canned food on hand. This way you won’t need to race out to catch wildlife the day after a disaster. Allow for three cans per person per day minimum of three days. Baked beans and canned fruit in syrup (never mind the diet, you’ll need the sugar) are ideal. Don’t forget the can opener! Other non-perishables like tea, sugar, powdered milk and honey can be stored for a year or two in airtight containers. It’s important to replace these if the due dates expire.

Calling for help

If you live remotely and need to attract attention then a couple of flares would come in handy. I wouldn’t expect town or city folk to need to need to risk setting fire to their surroundings with a flare just to attract the attention of the power board when the power goes out.

First aid

Incidents and injuries often go hand in hand, so it pays to be prepared with a first aid kit. It’s even better if one or more people in the household have done a first aid course. It could mean the saving of a life and the making of a hero.

Storage

So where do we put all this stuff? Your survival kit will preferably be housed in one large plastic container with a lid, but you’ll want to separate the items into individual containers within the bigger one. The candles and matches will have their own container and the torch will be in a zip-lock bag, etc. Keep the candles and torch at the top of the box for power outages and then order in priority what you think you may need. The first aid kit should remain un-opened, ready for use only in a real emergency. Another one should be kept close at hand for taping the kids and DIY hubby back together.

Make sure you and your family know what’s in the survival kit by having a list of items written on the inside of the lid. Once this is done you’ll be better prepared than most in the event of an emergency. Now I’m off the check the due dates on my cans and change the battery in the torch I never hope to use.

DIY Concrete Stools
Keep reading

Stephen’s article got me thinking about the beauty of owning a house and making it your own. But the pitfalls and issues of an older home can be daunting.

My very first house was a flat fronted 1910 Villa. A central hallway with two front rooms off it led from the front door to a living room and another bedroom. Another door carried through to the lean to, with an all-original scullery, bathroom and kitchen. The back door led to a covered porch and outside toilet. The original long drop was, thankfully, long gone.

Keep reading

As much as I love fresh produce straight from the garden, when green thumbs were being painted I must’ve been in the fishing and watersports department. Not to say I can’t plant and look after a veggie garden, it’s just that I forget to water and weed on a regular basis. This results in poor crops and slugs and insects being well fed while I go hungry. But there’s that satisfaction and pride in serving a meal that includes fodder you’ve grown so I’m giving it another crack with a sure to succeed wicking garden – a self watering garden bed perfect for my inattentiveness.

Keep reading

How good is it to have a two car garage? Room for his and her vehicles, a work bench, tools, garden equipment, sporting paraphernalia, ahh. It’s the perfect storage solution, but only if it’s organised and looks somewhat tidy.

I’m a culprit of stacking things in a hurry with the intention of sorting it out later, but later never seems to come and soon everything is stacked, piled and inaccessible and where once there was room for two vehicles you might be lucky to squeeze in a motorcycle (or scooter).

So here’s a solution to storage using plywood, a few pieces of framing timber, some doweling and some timber for shelves.

Keep reading

Spring has sprung, there are things to be done and outside the place is a mess. New tools are needed to get everything washed, cut and weeded. The world cup is our only stress right now, and with all the games being on in the wee hours, there are no excuses to not get up and tidy up the outdoors in the sunshine.

In earlier posts I’ve given you all the info on what needs to be done. From washing the house and cleaning the gutters to trimming hedges and pruning trees. But now feels like a great time to invest in a tool or two to make these jobs easier and maybe even “enjoyable”.

Keep reading

A collection of inspiration and tips from our experts, designed to help you be good with your home. Brought to you by our experts - Stephen Hart, Michelle Halford and Cocksy

DIY | Desk

DIY | Privacy Screen

DIY | Wardrobe

DIY | Outdoor couch

Water

Keeping warm

Food

Calling for help

First aid

Storage

Survival kit

DIY Concrete Stools
Keep reading

DIY Concrete Stools

My first home & renovation

DIY | Build a bathtub wicking garden

DIY | Garage storage for tools and toys

HOMEOWNER TOOL KIT | PART FIVE