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DIY: Build an outdoor table for under $100

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If you’re hosting the family this Christmas, or just having some friends for a barbie, I’ll show you how you can build yourself a table that can seat an extra 12 people for under $100.  The good thing is it has endless uses; once you’re done you could turn it into an outdoor worktable or a desk in the office. This table measures 2400 x 1200mm.

TOOLS:

  • Hand Saw
  • Mitre box (to saw straight)
  • Tape measure
  • Ruler
  • Pencil
  • Screwdrivers (that suit your screws)
  • Drill & Drill bits (5mm, 3mm & 2mm)
  • Drilling Jig (I’ll explain below)

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MATERIALS:

  • 80x 32mm screws (8 gauge) & 24x 16mm screws (6 gauge)
  • 4x 75mm fixed pin butt hinge
  • 2x lengths of 700mm 4mm diameter rope
  • 11.3m of 90mm x 18mm pine (legs and rails)
  • 2x lengths of 2.2m 70mm x 45mm pine (bearers) 
  • 2400mm x 1200mm coversheet of particleboard, plywood or MDF
  • An offcut of pine or ply (approx. 90mm wide)
  • PVA wood glue

STEP ONE: LEGS AND RAILS

From the long lengths of 90mm x 18mm pine, cut 16 lengths @ 700mm.

Using the mitre box, cut a square end then measure, mark and cut. Accuracy is key to a straight and level trestle leg, so ensure each piece is 700mm long and all cuts are square. Lightly sand all edges and ends with 120 grit paper to remove any sharp edges.      

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STEP TWO: DRILLING JIG TEMPLATE

Cut a piece of the leftover 90mm x 18mm pine to 90mm long. Mark a line 20mm in from each edge. At the intersections of the lines, drill 4 holes with the 3mm drill bit.

Screw or nail a stop block to one side of the jig. I used an offcut of plywood.      

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STEP THREE: PRE-DRILL THE RAILS

Position the jig with the stop block against the end of the pre-cut rails and flush to each side. Using the 2mm drill bit, drill through the Jig and the full way through the rail. Pull the drill out while still drilling to clear the shavings. Do this to both ends of all 8 rails.

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STEP FOUR: CONSTRUCT  

Apply glue to the backside of your top rail, running a bead between each hole and diagonally in between. Position it flush to the top and side of the leg, press down firmly to hold, and drill through the pre-drilled rail, half way into the leg. Screw in all four screws (32mm) to fasten. Repeat the process to connect the top rail to the other leg. To fit the bottom rail, use the same method, but use the drilling jig as a template to set the rail 90mm up from the bottom of the leg.

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STEP FIVE: HINGES

Lay 2 completed legs top to top with the rails facing down. Centre the butt hinge flush with the top of the leg. Using a 2mm drill bit, pre-drill all 3 holes. Hand-screw the hinge to the leg using the 16mm screws. Line up the sides of both sets of legs, then pre-drill and screw the other side of the hinge in place. Fix the other hinge in the same manner to complete. Repeat for the other set of legs.

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STEP SIX: THE ROPE

Measure, mark and drill a 5mm hole in the centre of each bottom rail. Stand the trestle legs upright and thread the rope through both rails. If you’re using nylon rope, melt the end with a lighter to prevent fraying and make it easier to thread. Tie a knot in one end of the rope and pull tight to ensure the knot can’t be pulled through the hole. Extend the base of the legs to 560mm apart and tie off the other end of the rope. This may take several attempts to get right. Complete for the other set of trestle legs.

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STEP SEVEN: TOP IT OFF

Position the trestle legs approx. 1400mm apart, centre-to-centre. Lay the 2 70mm x 45mm pine bearers flush with the side of the trestle leaving an overhang of approx. 400mm. Position your selected top on the bearers with an equal overhang on all sides. The top was 2440mm x 1220mm so my overhang was 260mm on the sides and 120mm on each end.

Scribe a pencil line 295mm from the edge, pre-drill and screw the top to the bearers with the 32mm screws starting approx. 200mm in from one end and then at 400mm intervals.

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STEP EIGHT: TIDY THE TOP

Cut the corners off the top on a diagonal approx. 20mm along each edge. Sand the corner to a round and sand the remainder of the sides to remove any sharp edges.

OPTIONAL: with a roller and some white paint, or whatever you have leftover from another paint job, apply a couple of coats to the table top surfaces and edges. You could get carried away and paint the trestle legs, but a quick lick with Danish oil would be all I’d bother with.

HANDY TIPS:

  • Coversheets can be purchased from building merchants or joinery shops. I used a 16mm particleboard coversheet that was sold as a second for $10.
  • To keep the price down you could pull apart a few old pallets for the legs and rails. These are readily available for free on the roadside in industrial areas.



Now all you need to do is set the table and invite your mates over. Have a look at what Michelle has done to dress it up!

Cheers, Cocksy!


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This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.