BNZ GoodHome

Reading is an enjoyable pastime all year around but there’s nothing quite like curling up with a good book in winter. What’s even better is when you have a special corner at home dedicated to doing just this. With comfort in mind, here are my essentials for creating a cosy reading nook.  

A Dedicated Space

First decide on a good spot for your nook such as a corner of the living area or bedroom. If necessary rearrange the furniture to allow for the new space.

Comfortable Seating

An essential element, seating is also a very personal one. My ultimate reading nook chair would be the iconic Flag Halyard Chair designed by Hans J. Wegner shown below! But depending on your taste in comfort and style (and your budget) options to consider include an armchair, rocking chair and ottoman, daybed, comfy vintage chair, bean bag, swing chair or even an indoor hammock.

The Apartment by The Line / photography by Carolina Engman

Cushions and a Throw

Enhance the level of comfort with cushions and a throw. Choose beautiful textiles that appeal to you, so that they entice you to curl up feeling cosy and warm. In winter I swap my lighter cotton, linen and silk throws for wool. My current favourite is the incredibly soft Alpaca Throw from the new Kate and Kate winter 2016 collection which you can see on my daybed below. When it comes to cushions, I have a preference for natural materials that add texture, and right now I am loving the felted wool and linen covers by local designers Penny + Bennett, Nodi and Kanuka Collective. I also favour natural feather down inners which regulate temperature, mould beautifully to your body and stay super soft.

Styling and photography by Michelle Halford for TDC

A Place for Books

While it helps to have a bookshelf close to your reading nook, it is not essential. Even though I have several books and magazines on the go at one time, I use the Loop Design Felt Storage Basket from Resident GP (shown above) to store and transport them from room to room.

A Small Table

Allow for somewhere to place your cuppa while you turn the pages. This could be a side table, stool, pouffe (with the addition of a tray or hard cover book for stability) or even just a stack of books or mags.

Styling by Greydeco / photography by Jonas Berg

Lighting

Adequate lighting is essential for reading, so avoid choosing a dark corner for your nook. Ideally you will want to position yourself near a window to allow for natural light during the day, and use a lamp for night time reading. Choose from a pendant light, desk lamp (placed on a side table) or floor lamp. Personally I love the versatility of floor lamps, especially if they are adjustable.

Styling by Greydeco / photography by Janne Olander

Personal Style

Inject some personal style into your reading nook. Hang artwork on the wall, add fresh flowers or plants and a cosy rug underfoot. These finishing touches make all the difference. In fact, you may never want to leave!

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities. 

Having a mortgage is one of those grown-up things most of us do at some point in our lives to help us have the home of our dreams. Once you’re living in your dream home, the next dream is being mortgage-free.

At BNZ, we want to help you get there, faster. So here are a few tips on how to get there sooner, rather than later.

Look into offsetting

Reduce the interest you pay by offsetting with a TotalMoney home loan. It combines the balances of your everyday accounts and subtracts them from the total owing on your mortgage, and you only pay interest on the difference. This means you could get mortgage free faster, while saving thousands of dollars in interest.

Calculate how much you could save with TotalMoney

Have you thought about tailoring your repayments?

Your financial situation changes over the years with different factors coming into consideration. Pay rises happen, kids leave home and you find yourself with a little bit of extra cash. Instead of putting those extra pennies towards something else, why not look at increasing your repayments to suit your new financial situation and help pay off your home loan faster? With BNZ’s Tailored Repayments*, you’ll get a little reminder every year, giving you the option of a small automatic increase to your loan repayments. You can choose to say yay or nay, so you’re in control.

See how Tailored Repayments can work for home loans.

On that topic of extra pennies… pay extra when you can.

Anything you pay above the minimum amount will come straight off the principal of your home loan, which means you will end up paying less interest over the life of the loan*.

• Pay an extra $20 a week. On a 25-year, $250,000 home loan at 6.5% this could save you nearly $33,000 in interest and knock two years off your mortgage.
• Round your repayments up (for example, instead of $634, pay $650).

Low interest rates? Don’t be tempted

When the interest rate drops, it can be very tempting to lower your repayments if you have a variable home loan. But, if you continue to pay the same amount, more of each payment will go towards repaying your principal – you know what that means. You’ll be reducing your outstanding balance faster and lowering your overall interest costs.

Switch it up to fortnightly repayments

If you’re currently paying off your mortgage monthly, you can jump ahead a little bit by changing to make your repayments every two weeks*. With 26 fortnights in a year, you’ll end up making two extra repayments every year without even noticing.

To find out more about paying off your home loan faster, pop in to your local BNZ, give us a call on 0800 275 269 or click here to find out some more information. You never know, you could be mortgage-free faster than you thought.

BNZ Lending criteria, terms and fees may apply. *Early repayment charges may apply. Tailored repayment are not available on interest-only or progressive draw-down loans.

This information is for general information purposes only. To the extent that it contains financial advice, it does not take into account your particular financial situation or goals. BNZ recommends that you seek advice specific to your circumstances from your financial adviser.

Generally, if you require a piece of furniture you go to a store or two, choose a design you like on a budget you can afford and purchase the item.

As a builder I can’t see myself constructing my own sofa or chairs, but items like bed frames, tables and desks are all things I’ve had a go at, with successful results. Making an item from scratch no matter how simple gives a feeling of achievement you don’t get from store-bought furniture, and if you’ve designed it yourself, even better.

Here’s a desk you might like to have a go at and because the materials and method are simple, maybe change it up and design your own coffee table, dining table, side table or stool. Maybe even a bar leaner.

Tools:

• Ruler
• Tape measure
• Pencil
• Drill
• Impact driver – screwdriver
• 28mm Speedbone drill bit / 3mm drill bit
• Sand paper
• Allen key
• Craft knife
• 45mm screws / 8 gauge
• Super coarse plastic

Materials:

• 24mm Plywood (I’ve used birch)
• 1 piece at 1600mm long x 700mm wide
• 2 pieces at 640mm long x 70mm wide
• 20mm Galvanised water pipe
• 4 pieces at 660mm long
• 2 pieces at 540mm long
• 4 x 20mm x 90 degree quick clamp elbows

I chose birch ply for the desktop as it is strong and stable, the colour is light but can be stained any colour and is relatively easy to finish with oil or polyurethane.

I have the equipment to cut the plywood accurately but suggest getting a joiner to cut your plywood components accurately. With the desktop being 700mm wide I have a 2400mm x 500mm off cut which I can use for another project. It may become shelves or a coffee table, but because of the price it will not go to waste.

I had the galvanised pipe cut by the merchant (Steel and Tube) at a very low cost and it made it easier to transport.

Important to note:

Although the pipe has a nominated size of 20mm, this is the internal diameter of the pipe and the external diameter is 27mm.

Step 1 - Legs

The two pieces of ply (640mm x 70mm) are the base for the legs. Each of these pieces need a 28mm hole drilled through at each end. Mark 35mm in from the side and 35mm in from the end.

Drill a 28mm hole right through the ply.

It would be ideal to drill a 27mm hole, as the pipe diameter would be a perfect fit, but speedbore drill bits don’t come at that size. To make the leg fit tightly, a shim of super coarse plastic is just the right size. Cut a strip of super coarse.

Place in the hole.

Fit 660mm length of pipe into the pipe hole.

Then twist clockwise until the pipe is flush with the other side of the ply.

Repeat for both pieces of ply and all four lengths of the 660mm pipe.

The quick clamp elbows have Allen key threaded grub screws, which clamp firmly to the pipe. Loosen all of the grub screws off so that the pipe can slide into the elbow.

Fit one elbow to each end of the two pieces of 540mm long pipe.

The measure between the two legs fitted to base ply should be 570mm centre to centre.

Fit the other elbow to the end of 540mm pipe and ensure it is 570mm between the two elbow centres before tightening.

Fit the pipe with elbows to the legs and measure to make sure both sides are even before tightening with Allen key.

The measure from the ply to the bottom of the elbow should be 610mm.

Trim off excess super coarse plastic with a craft knife and the legs are ready to fit to the desktop

Step 2 - Fitting to desk top

Lay top on stools using drop sheets or soft cloths so as not to damage the top of desk.

Sit legs in approximate position and measure it from end and edges 30mm.

Face the grubscrews on the elbows to the inside.

Pre-drill 3mm holes at each end of the base ply, approximately 15mm in from edge.

Before fixing the leg to the top, check that the screws are not too long. A screw coming though the desktop is not a good look. 45mm screws are perfect so long as they are not over tightened.

Using an impact driver, or screwdriver, screw the base to the top through the predrilled hole.

Two screws at each end of the base are enough to hold firmly to the top.

Fit the other legs the same.

Turn the desk over and hand sand all of the edges and faces of ply with maximum 220 grit sandpaper.

Desk can be left natural by oiling with teak oil or polyurethane.

Note. The height of the desk is approximately 720mm. Desks and or tables are usually between 710mm and 760mm. If the top is thin, then the desk can be towards the lower height. A standard chair is 450mm to the top of the seat and the general rule of thumb is to have a 300mm gap between the top of the seat and the top of the desk. With adjustable office chairs, a comfortable work height can be achieved by the raising or lowering of the chair.

So try my desk and have a look at how Michelle dressed it up. You can make your own industrial style bespoke table or whatever you dream up. I’ve given you an idea and a method, make it your own.

Cheers,

Cocksy.

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.

Open shelving works well in every room in the home. When hung on the wall shelves provide a great place to store items and display favourite objects. And because they utilise unused vertical space, they are also ideal for compact areas. While simplistic in form, there are different designs to consider. Taking into account the location, what you will be using them for and of course your own personal taste, here are five great styles to choose from.

1. Multipurpose Shelving

Styling by Alana Langan / photography by Annette O’Brien

Right now I’m loving shelves that offer versatility, and the Plant shelf by Ivy Muse is a great example. Designed and made in Melbourne from powder coated or brass-plated steel and Victorian Ash, each easy to assemble plant shelf comes with a handmade slip-cast porcelain pot in a choice of two colour options; Feather Grey or Peach Eggshell. Easily converting to a right hand side or left hand side pot position, added grooves allow for the display of artwork and/or prints, posters or postcards.

Another minimal, stylish and multipurpose shelving unit, the Fold Shelf by Made of Tomorrow features a super practical way to display your favourite potted house plants with a unique suspended pot hole.

2. Leather Love

Becoming a popular alternative to traditional wood and metal brackets, natural leather goes hand in hand with wooden shelves. The beautiful Lightly Assemblages Leather Shelves draw on the utilitarian resourcefulness of the early 1900s and saddlery aesthetic that combines leather girths and belt buckles. Available from Cult NZ, choose from black or natural leather, paired with plywood shelves.

3. Design Classic

Styling and photography by Decordots

One of my personal favourites, The String Pocket is an iconic Scandinavian design that combines form and function, to suit any interior style. Visit Bob and Friends (online or in store) to view the range of colours on offer in NZ.

4. Picture Ledge

Styling by Greydeco / photography by Jonas Berg

Ideal for kids rooms, above a bed or sofa, picture ledges are great for displaying books and framed pictures. As you can see from the above image, they even work well in the kitchen. I love the versatility of the IKEA Ribba Picture Ledges which you can get in NZ from Living Concepts and Nordic Chill. Place the ledges one above the other to create a bookshelf as shown below, place them offset at different heights, or create one long shelf by placing them side by side. For a streamlined effect, match the shelf to your wall colour.

Styling and photography by Nina Holst/Styizimo

5. Style on a Budget

Styling and photography by Michelle Halford for TDC

I get so many people asking me about my office shelves above. An affordable option that is both stylish and practical, I simply paired some IKEA brackets from Living Concepts with shelves from Bunnings. Too easy!

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities. 

Investing in property could be a great way to take control of your financial future. So whether you’re new to property investment, or you’re building on your portfolio, here are some key things to consider if you’re in the market to invest.

What are the benefits?

Most people buy property as a long-term investment. But there are many other benefits, like equity inflation, capital appreciation gain, and more stability when compared to other types of investments like the stock market.

And as you build up equity in your investment property, this opens up the possibility of buying more properties or making other investments.

The big question: can you afford to invest?

One of the first things you need to figure out is whether you can actually afford an investment property. Calculating your budget is an important part of the process. So get started by crunching the following numbers:

• How much equity do you have in your existing home?
• How much money do you have saved?
• How much do you need to borrow and can you afford the repayments?
• If interest rates go up, can you still afford the repayments?

You might just discover that you’re closer to achieving your goals than you think.

Making a plan

Everybody has different reasons or motivations for investing in property. Do you want to set yourself up for retirement? Or do you want a property that you can pass down to your kids? Whatever your reason, you need to ask yourself these questions and make a plan for the future.

Finance options

Did you know that any equity stored up in your current home can go towards purchasing another property? There are many ways you could fund your investment property, which one you choose depends on you and your circumstances.

You’ll also need to decide what kind of loan to get. Interest only loans are a smart option for investors who want to achieve capital growth on their property over a shorter term.

Click here to find out more about your home loan options.

Property selection

One of the biggest worries many investors have is that their property might sit vacant on the rental market, so choose a home in an area with a high population rate and a high sign of rental demand. Also, look at areas that have a steady growth in value.

And if you’re worried about on-going maintenance and repair costs, then find a property that’s in good condition, as this will limit the costs.

10 common mistakes to avoid

Many New Zealanders make a number of mistakes when it comes to managing an investment property. So to reach your goals more quickly, be prepared and avoid these common pitfalls:

1. Property investment won’t solve your financial problems

Just because you own an investment property, doesn’t mean you’ll automatically be wealthy. To make money, you need to put in the work and this takes time.

2. Do the numbers

Before you spend hundreds of thousands of dollars, you need to understand the costs involved. This could make the difference between a purchase being a good investment or a long-term drain on finances.

3. Understand the risks

Many people get caught out by believing that property prices only ever go up. Most risks can be minimised, but you’ve got to know where they are.

4. Get advice

Avoid mistakes by getting advice from those who have already seen others make them. There are plenty of stories out there, so make sure you talk to the right people.

5. Finance isn’t just about getting a loan

Getting money in the bank is the “easy” bit, but many people don’t think about how they structure their mortgages. Talk to our Property Investment team.

6. Manage your property well

Many investors don’t review rents as often as they should or they don’t know how to deal with a tenancy problem. Always have additional money set aside to cover repairs and maintenance, to avoid being caught out in the future.

7.  Doing due diligence

Many people let their emotions get in the way when buying an investment property and sometimes end up paying too much, or end up with a leaky building. Take time to do enough research pre-purchase.

8. Don’t just be interested when the market is hot

A lot of people become property investors when house prices are rising. In reality, you should be buying when the market is low.

9. Understand the difference between a home and an investment property

Your purchase should be driven by things like numbers, on-going maintenance and the local rental market – not how attractive or homely it is.

10. Buy in the right location

Look for property in places where there is population growth, infrastructure and employment.

Ready to invest?

Our dedicated residential property investment team are here to help you. So once you’ve done your initial research and believe you are prepared to take the next steps, get in touch with us today.

This information is for general information purposes only. To the extent that it contains financial advice, it does not take into account your particular financial situation or goals. BNZ recommends that you seek advice specific to your circumstances from your financial adviser.

We all like to think retirement is something that’s a little way off for most of us. We love living in the moment and enjoying our family, friends and all the milestones in between. At BNZ, we know that we’re not all ready to move into retirement, but there’s no better time than now to start planning and saving for it, so we’re here to help with a few tips.

A little now, means a lot more later

Where do you begin when it comes to planning? When you want to retire, your main sources of income come in mainly three forms: your own savings, income from any investments you have made and the NZ Super.

The NZ Super is unlikely to be enough for your personal needs and the government only pay out when you reach 65, so looking into developing your own saving scheme and retirement plan is necessary.

Start with a budget and think about the life you would like once you retire. Thinking about the basics, such as insurance, maintenance on your home and car, plus a few extra pennies for some unexpected purchases, is a starting point. Also consider what age you’d like to retire, what kind of lifestyle you’d like and where you’ll be living.

When you keep these things in mind, you can make sure you’ve got a good basis to start your budgeting and begin putting away a little bit now to make sure you’ve got enough for yourself later on for whatever plan you’d like to have.
The answer to “how much you should be saving?” is different for everyone, according to their individual circumstances. For you it will depend on your:

• current age
  
• current income and lifestyle
  
• intended retirement age
  
• target retirement income (i.e. preferred retirement expenditure levels)
  
• current retirement savings and assets
  
• likely inheritances and other sources of assets
  

To work out your position, check out the retirement planner at sorted.org.nz

Own home or renting?

One of the big things to think about is whether you’ll be living in your own home or renting during your retirement. If you find yourself renting, you won’t have any money tied up in a home and no responsibility for home maintenance. At the other end of the spectrum, owning your own home means you’ll have more control over your finances. Plus, there’s no threat of being asked to move out or having your rent increased.

It’s a personal consideration as to what best suits you and it’s great to keep your options in mind as you continue to move towards a saving scheme.

Speaking of mortgages… how to avoid the mortgage trap

Paying off your mortgage prior to retirement is important but shouldn’t be the sole thing you take into account when planning your savings.

There are risks in leaving serious retirement saving until after you’ve paid your mortgage off. There is the chance you could end up having a mortgage for longer than expected due to changes in circumstances such as illness or loss of work. These factors need to be considered as they can affect your ability to make repayments. Click here for 5 ways to become mortgage free faster.

When KiwiSaver is on your side

KiwiSaver offers extra benefits, making it a great option for retirement saving – even if you have a mortgage.

As well as the money you put in and any growth in your savings over time, your employer and the Government may help boost your KiwiSaver account. If you’re working and are contributing through your pay, your employer must generally also contribute 3% of your before-tax pay to your KiwiSaver account. And if you’re eligible, for every $1 you put into your KiwiSaver, the Government may add an extra 50 cents, up to $521 per year.

A little bit of thinking about the future, and the type of retirement you’d like to have, the easier it’ll be for you to begin planning and budgeting a long-term savings plan – your future self will thank you for it. If you have any questions, we’re happy to help. Drop into your local BNZ store or call us on 0800 275 269 to find out more. We also have Authorised Financial Advisors ready to help you with any money advice you may need.

Article adapted from the original article at https://www.sorted.org.nz/guides/planning-for-retirement

This information is for general information purposes only. To the extent that it contains financial advice, it does not take into account your particular financial situation or goals. BNZ recommends that you seek advice specific to your circumstances from your financial adviser.

Us Kiwis love to use our decks and outdoor areas. Be it for nightly summer barbecues, family and friends’ gatherings or kids parties, our outdoor spaces are special and designed to fit our needs.

We also love our privacy and in residential areas, this is sometimes hard to obtain, especially when neighbouring houses have views into your outdoor spaces. Fences, trees and hedges can go a long way to creating privacy between neighbours but sometimes they just don’t cut the mustard.

The simple answer is to create a screen type barrier between you and your neighbour so that both parties feel comfortable that they are not intruding on each other’s privacy.

The screen I have created, for a family in central Auckland, only became necessary because their neighbours extended and elevated a large extension to the rear of their home and both parties privacy was compromised.

The new living room looks directly onto the deck of my client so the solution became simple. Let’s create a screen.

Tools:

• Drop saw
• Circular saw
• Clamp
• Hand plane
• Hole saw
• Battery drill
• Impact driver
• Drill bits
• Counter sink bit
• Hammer
• Chisel
• Tape measure
• Ruler
• Pencil
• Square
• Socket set
• Protective eyewear (Glasses)
• Hearing protection (Ear Muffs)
• Materials:
  Posts – Ex 100 x 75 H4 Pine
• Coach screws M12 x 160mm S/S
• Washers M12 x 3mm round
• Or M12 x 50 x 50 x 3mm square

Vitex decking – 140 x 19 machined to varied sizes as per design. I have 4 sizes: 30 x 19, 40 x 19, 95 x 19 and 140 x 19.

Decking screws – 65mm x 10 gauge S/S

Step 1 - Attaching posts to deck

I chose to attach my posts to the deck only as there was an existing concrete path making it difficult to embed them into an in-ground concrete footing. In most cases a screen, much like a fence, would require posts to be set in 600mm deep x 300mm x 300mm concrete footings.

My connection into the deck’s boundary joist is with the use of an M12 x 160mm stainless steel coach screw.

To make a neat job of the connection I chose to flush the head of the screw and washer into the post.

Mark the centre of the screw position on the post.

Square the mark around to the front of the post and mark the centre.

Using a hole saw, slightly bigger than the diameter of the washer, drill into the post approximately 12mm.

Chisel out the hole to the depth of approximately 12mm.

Drill a 13mm hole through the post.

As an alternative, a square washer can be used. These are 50mm x 50mm x 3mm. Mark around the washer and chisel to a depth of 12mm as per the round washer.

Position post and clamp firmly in place, ensuring it is plumb.

Drill into the deck boundary using a 8mm drill bit.

Using a socket wrench fit coach screw and washer and tighten.

Repeat process for remaining posts.

With all of the posts fixed, establish a height and level across all posts.

Using a circular saw and protective safety equipment, cut posts to height.

Use a hand plane (block plane) to erase the edges on top of the posts.

To keep the posts in vertical alignment, a board needs to be attached to the top of the posts. Measure between posts at the bottom.

Screw a board flush to the top of the posts and spaced as per the bottom measures.

If you want to paint the posts, now is the time, before the boards are attached.

Step 2 - Attaching boards to posts

With the top board screwed in place to hold the posts in vertical alignment I have also created a datum for measuring down to the start of the first board as relying on the deck to be level is not accurate enough.

Get the first board straight and level and it’s plain sailing to the top. Each board is spaced with an offcut (19mm) and aligned with the board below before being screwed.

The screws are 65mm S/S decking screws with a counter sunk head.

Pre-drill all holes with a countersunk drill before screwing.

With my four different sized boards the pattern is random, with only the 30mm wide board being used on the edges.

All ends of the boards are erased using the block plane.

It would be ideal to have all of the boards as full length but unfortunately with Vitex, random lengths mean there are joins. Alternate the joined boards with the full boards so that the joins are randomly positioned.

Continue fixing boards in this manner until you reach the top board. The top board can be adjusted up or down to create even gaps or alternatively adjust the gaps in the last few boards by a couple of millimetres to make it to the top board evenly.

With the screen in place I cut and fixed some angle braces between the bottom of each post and a deck joist. This will prevent wind moving the screen out of plumb. If your posts are set in concrete this isn’t required. Cut a 45 degree to one end of the brace.

Measure and cut.

Check before fixing in place.

Pre-drill 6mm holes in both ends of the brace.

Screw to the joist.

Then level and screw the brace to the post.

Use 100mm x 14 gauge galvanised bugle screws. These go in easily with an impact driver and are fast becoming the go to fastener for builders and designers.

And with the neighbours blocked out it’s time to put the barby on.

Cheers,

Cocksy.

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.

Room Series #7 | The Workspace

While there are benefits to working from home, keeping distractions at bay can be challenging. Creating a separate home office or study that is stylish, functional and conducive to work will encourage productivity and the flow of creative ideas. In terms of interior design and styling, the home office lends itself to a much more personal approach than that of a traditional office. Here are my tips for bringing function, style and fun to your home office space.

Think Outside the ‘Office Furniture’ Box

Create a natural sense of cohesion with the rest of your home by choosing furniture that doesn’t seem out of place. A comfortable, stylish dining chair is a great option for the study. Pair it with a cosy sheepskin for extra comfort and warmth. Add rustic warmth with a vintage desk or give it a fresh lease of life with a coat of white paint. An alternative to the traditional desk, tables can also work well – consoles are great for compact spaces while dining tables are well suited to larger ones. I also have an affordable DIY desk option. Keep reading to find out more.

Image via Entrance Makleri

Get Creative

My top tip for the home office is ensure that it reflects your own personal style. Affordable and fun,  create a moodboard with magazine tear sheets, postcards and anything else that inspires you. My work is focused around interiors but right now my office moodboard includes a mix of fashion, design, landscapes, photography and architecture across a colour palette I am currently loving. Inject further personality and interest by displaying your favourite objects, light a scented candle for ambience, add a vase of fresh flowers and choose an artwork that makes your heart sing.

Styling by Pella Hedeby and photography by Sara Medina Lind via Stil Inspiration

Storage Ideas

Save your valuable floor space by doing away the filing cabinets and installing some wall shelves. For some great options, check out this issue’s 5 Types of Shelving article. Not only will this keep everything you need at hand while keeping your desk uncluttered, you can use the shelves to display those favourite objects mentioned above. Other stylish ideas for wall storage include the Mathilda Clahr Leather Hangers and Normann Copenhagen Pocket Organisers (pictured below) and the Felt Wall Organiser by Made of Tomorrow.

Styling by Michelle Halford for TDC

Light it Up

Whether your office is a separate room, small nook or corner, I recommend positioning yourself near natural light as this will lift your mood and encourage productivity. Combine overhead lighting with a directional lamp in the form of a table or floor lamp. I currently have a Clip Cage Light in my office which is clipped onto my shelves providing great directional lighting when I am working at my desk in the evenings.

Plant Power

A must for the home office, plants are proven to increase productivity, reduce sickness, improve air quality and increase creativity. Place a small plant such as a succulent on your desk or shelves and a larger one on the floor. For something different, try housing the bigger plant in a basket or use a stylish plant stand. Check out the Seagrass Basket and range of Plant Stands from Tessuti.

As mentioned at the start of this article I have a DIY desk to share with you thanks to  BNZ GoodHome builder Cocksy. Made from plywood and galvanised pipe, the clean, simple lines mean this desk will fit easily into an any interior setting. Inspired by the desk legs, I paired it with the classic PK9 Chair by Fritz Hansen which is made from leather and stainless steel. I then added my own personal touch with stylish desktop accessories, fresh flowers and beautiful artwork. I love how these details compliment the desk while softening its industrial edge. The overall look is sophisticated and elegant. Natural light and greenery will enhance productivity while overhead and directional lighting ensure the office is a well-lit space. See the full list of products below the images and for step by step instructions on how to build the desk, take a look here.

Before getting started I placed some adhesive felt circles to the bottom of the legs to protect our floors.

Styling by Michelle Halford / photography by Alistair Guthrie

WHERE TO BUY

PK9 Chair by Poul Kjærholm for Fritz Hansen – Cult Design

Cobra Lamp by Greta M. Grossman for Gubi – Cult Design

Hay Box Box, Thomas Jenkins’ Lens Boxes for Wrong for Hay, Archive Hill Oak Storage Box - Hay Accessories / Cult Design

Höst Concrete Candle – Zakkia

New York Elevations Print – Studio Esinam

National Theatre Photographic Print – Studio Esinam and Rory Gardiner

All other products, stylist’s own.

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

A Certificate of Title is a record of who owns or has an interest in a property and it’s important that home buyers understand the rights and implications of each type of title before making a purchase.

There are four main types of title that you are likely to come across:

Freehold Title (sometimes called Fee Simple)

If you have a freehold title it means that you own the property, with minimal restrictions. It is the most common form of title in New Zealand and the most preferable because it provides the most rights and least restrictions.

Watch out: Freehold may be the most preferable title but you will still be subject to council restrictions depending upon zoning and resource consent requirements.

Cross-lease Title

Cross-lease ownership is common where there is more than one property on a single title. The owners of each property jointly own the land and each leases their own property (called Flats), which collectively form the cross-lease title.

Cross-leases became popular with property developers from the 1960s on, because it was a more affordable form of sub-division compared to creating a freehold title for each home.

Watch out: If you want to change the “Flats Plan,” e.g. by building an extension to your home, then you will require consent from the other parties to the cross-lease. If there are multiple owners this could be a problem.

Leasehold Title

A Leasehold title refers to when someone other than the occupier of the property owns the land and charges ground rent to the lessee. These titles may be perpetually renewable, or can be terminating, after say, 50 or 100-years.

Watch out: Ground rent charges will usually be based on the value of the land and be reassessed every seven-years. In a property boom this means that ground rents can sky rocket and become unaffordable for the occupier. Leasehold properties are often more difficult to sell because of this uncertainty.

Unit title

This is a form of ownership typical for apartments and units, where each owner has freehold title to their individual unit as described on the unit plan. Owners have common areas and share duties for any common property, such as driveways, lifts, lobbies, etc. The seller must provide a buyer with a pre-contract disclosure statement. This will cover everything you need to know about the unit title and any specific information about the unit you are buying and any outstanding levies.

Watch out: Body corporates can be good, bad, or ugly. Make sure you check the minutes of previous body corporate meetings to fully understand any current issues and identify any areas of dissent.

No matter what type of title you are faced with, it is vital that a solicitor reviews it thoroughly. To check out legal service providers in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, click here.

Stephen Hart runs Hometopia.co.nz – the free online resource centre for home buyers and sellers - and buyers’ agency, Auckland HomeFinders.co.nz

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

People invest in property to make money. Successful investing is about maximising income and minimising outgoings and there is likely to be no greater outgoing than the cost of a professional property management company.

Property managers typically charge a fee of about 10%, all up, of the rental income. So, if your property is renting for $600 per week, then $60 + GST every week is heading to their bank account, not yours.

And there are usually other fees; property inspections at $30 each, 10% commission on accounts paid on your behalf, $500 sale penalties during an existing tenancy, etc. Real estate agent managers even charge tenants a week’s rental, which could put some tenants off your property.

So, surely you should do-it-yourself? Well maybe, but first consider some benefits.

· Minimum hassle – they get the phone call about a burst pipe in the middle of the night, not you

· Selecting the right tenants – they’ve seen it all before and understand the pitfalls of accepting dubious tenants. You will benefit from their judgment

· No more Mr Nice Guy – if the rent is overdue or there is a tenant problem, they are there to sort it, professionally, efficiently and without emotion. Are you ready for potential run-ins with your tenants?

· Absentee landlord – if you are based in a different city/country than your rental property, it’s a no-brainer

· Time is money – even if you only live around the corner, being an active landlord is going to absorb your time that could be spent doing other things. That’s fine with some, but not with others. What happened to that “Passive” investment?

· Admin avoidance – they’ve got the spreadsheets in place and will organise monthly statements, and the like, that will make it easy for you to file you to manage your investment and file your tax returns

· They maximise the rent payable and occupancy levels - they have the finger on the pulse of the market and ensure you are charging the correct rent. Would-be tenants are already on their books and should result in a quicker letting or replacement tenancy; occupancy levels are key.

· Sure the fee hurts, but remember, it’s tax deductible.

If you simply cannot afford a property manager’s fee, then you have no choice but to handle things yourself. Otherwise, for the majority of property investors a professional property manager is often money well spent.

Click here to check out property managers in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch.

Stephen Hart runs Hometopia.co.nz – the free online resource centre for home buyers and sellers - and buyers’ agency, Auckland HomeFinders.co.nz

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

Kitchen bench tops are the most hard working surfaces in the home so it’s important to choose well. Understanding the different materials and their benefits will help you make the right decision. As with any design project this will come down to budget and personal aesthetics, but you should also take into account your cooking style and propensity for maintenance.

Engineered Stone

Well known brands such as Silestone and Ceasarstone offer quartz stone bench tops that are very hard-wearing and practical. More resilient than marble or granite, their non-porous qualities also make them hygienic. Available in a range of colours including marble and concrete look options, we chose Silestone in Lagoon for our bench tops (shown below). Not only do we love the marble-look, we have found it to be a very high-performance surface with exceptional heat, stain and scratch resistance.

Styling and photography by Michelle Halford for TDC

Laminate

The most affordable bench top product, Laminex offers a large colour selection with many different finishes, patterns and textures to choose from.

Acrylic

Similar in price point to engineered stone from brands such as Corian, Infinity and Kalon, these bench tops are made of acrylic resin and can be coloured as you wish. Another benefit is that they are seamless with no visible joins, making them a good option for long bench tops and those that continue on to form a splash back.

Via Inside Out

Stainless Steel

Another reasonably priced option, stainless steel bench tops are extremely hygienic, durable and heat resistant. The choice for commercial kitchens, they will show up scratches but this adds to the overall industrial look. Creating a seamless look in the home cooking zone, stainless steel is another material that won’t show joins and like Corian can be moulded into any shape.

Via Inside Out

Timber  

Timber bench tops provide a great way of bringing warmth and texture to your kitchen. Working beautifully alongside other materials, timber can be used as a smaller accent or highlight piece. As with natural stone, timber is porous so will need regular sealing.

Oban House by Agushi via Contemporist

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities. 

Aside from actually buying a house, renovating it is one of the more stressful housing-related activities you can undertake. Thankfully, if it’s done right it’ll also add value and provide your home with a new lease of life. But where exactly do you start?

It doesn’t matter how large or small your planned renovation job is, you’re going to need a solid plan. The first thing to do is figure out if you can afford your grand design — and that means budgeting.

Get budgeting

A great resource for budgeting is sorted.org.nz — an independent financial guide containing all sorts of great financial advice. In this case, we want to use their budgeting tools to make sure your renovations don’t blow the budget.

Use the Money Planner to plug in all your financial details (income, debt, savings, regular expenses and so on), this’ll make it much easier to see where you stand. From here, determine how long it’ll take to save up the money, or how much to borrow.

If borrowing is how you plan to fund your renovation there are plenty of options available, including topping up your home loan. We have more information on these on our website and we have experts available to talk you through it and how it applies to your individual situation.

The most important thing when creating a budget for your renovations is that you’re realistic about what you can afford. Don’t underestimate your regular expenses and, if you can, include a buffer of ‘just in case’ money for unforeseen costs.

Avoid over-capitalising

At this point, it’s important to weigh up whether you’re over-capitalising. Unless you plan on living in the house forever, there comes a point when it doesn’t make financial sense to pump too much money into the renovations if it’s money you likely won’t get back when the time comes to sell.

A professional valuation of your home will give you an idea of how much it is worth. If you think you might need to borrow money for your renovations, check with your bank first about their valuation requirements. This will give you a good starting point when it comes to deciding how much you want to spend. Ultimately renovations should increase the value of the home by more than you spend.

Upgrading bathrooms and kitchens are popular places to start, and renovations that increase the efficiency of the home (like decreasing energy or water bills) will be attractive points for a future buyer. Anything that could limit what a future buyer might want to do with the property should be weighed up carefully before you proceed.

Have a plan

Your plan needs to take into account many things, including costs, the length of time your home is going to be a construction site, if you think you’ll need to hire a designer, an architect, an engineer or all of the above.

When it comes to hiring, don’t just go by price. Consider a range of factors including experience working on similar jobs and the reputation of the company.

The Consumer Build website has a section dedicated to renovations, which is a gold mine of information including some sound advice on finding such professionals.

Rules and regulations

Whether it’s a pro job or DIY, you’ll need to ensure anything you do is compliant, and this means talking to the local council to find out what, if any, consents are required to ensure the work is legal and safe. Again, the Consumer Build website has a great list of considerations that anyone undertaking a renovation should  check out. You should also visit the website of your local council.

Come and see us

When it comes to renovating your home, you can’t be too prepared. The more surprises you eliminate in advance, the smoother things will be during construction and the less likely you are to suffer a budget blow out. And don’t forget to come in and see us if you’re in need of some advice re options to fund the renovations you are planning.

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This information is for general information purposes only. To the extent that it contains financial advice, it does not take into account your particular financial situation or goals. BNZ recommends that you seek advice specific to your circumstances from your financial adviser.

Successful home buying requires a collaborative effort. Here are some tips on putting together your A-Team.

The rule for recruiting all members of your team is the same. Choose someone that you can identify with; someone who is on your wavelength and understands the life issues you face now and in the future.

Check out all of your potential team via their websites before deciding who to talk to in person. How do they communicate, is their content original and practically valuable?

The home buying journey rarely goes according to plan and there will be bumps and scrapes along the way. Ask yourself is this the sort of person you could work with in times of pressure and high drama.

Mortgage Broker

Finding a professional who can advise you of your home loan opportunities, restrictions and financial realities is a key starting point to the home buying process.

If you are an investor, should you be looking to work with a variety of lenders to limit your reliance on any one party? What are the pros and cons?

Are there any lenders that the broker doesn’t have access to?

Besides the best interest rate, what other benefits can lenders provide, eg, a contribution to legal fees, or other added value services?

Building Inspector

It’s important that you have any prospective home properly inspected to ensure it is sound, or that you know exactly what’s wrong with it before you sign on the dotted line.

The inspection industry is largely unregulated and there is an enormous variation in the quality of reports produced. Some are inadequately brief, while others are ridiculously long, packed with filler and short on conclusions.

Many companies have examples of their reports available for download on their websites. If not, ask two or three companies to email you an example of a report so you can see their approach for yourself. Choose an inspector that writes reports that are thorough but also to the point.

When you have chosen an inspector, try and accompany him or her to the inspection itself. Much will be revealed in person that will never come out on the report. If that’s not possible follow up the report with a phone call to talk things through in more detail.

Lawyer

Pick a lawyer that is right for the job you require.

If you simply require conveyancing services you may use a company that specialises in it. They offer good value compared to general firms because they don’t have the same overheads or access to specialist functions like litigation.

On the other hand, if you are wanting to form a family trust to hold the property, you need to ensure that the firm can also offer this service.

You may be new to the country and want a solicitor that you can build an ongoing relationship with as your family or business lawyer and offers a wide range of private and commercial services

Specialists

Be prepared to call in the specialists when you need them.

Is there evidence of borer damage in the timber? Want to know if you can convert the cross lease to freehold? Need thermographic imaging to identify moisture? Concerned about subdivision issues or being built out? Your building inspector and lawyer can point you in the right direction of specialists to get help on all of these matters and more.

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

Making the most of storage space is important and the key to a good wardrobe design is maximising storage while maintaining accessibility. My kids generally maximise the storage and accessibility of their clothes by hanging them on the floor and the bed. I’ve seen exercise equipment used for this with great results, although using the equipment for its intended purpose becomes a little difficult with frocks, skirts and blouses stacked five high on the “get me skinny so I can fit my summer clothes” machine.

The key to a good wardrobe is the opening. The wider the better and the higher the better is the rule of thumb. To get the best access the opening should go from wall to wall and floor to ceiling. This enables you to see all your clothing and footwear without having to search the dark corners and recesses that you generally find in the wardrobes of older homes.

The wardrobe I have fitted out is an example of an old wardrobe that originally had a set of double doors, one hanging rail, and one shelf. The opening has been widened and heightened to allow maximum access. As every wardrobe is different in size my example is not so much about the sizing but about the design and construction of shelves, draws and rails.

Before you begin construction it is imperative that you have a plan, or at least a sketch. My plan is best illustrated using a pic of the final product.

The design is driven by the client’s requests and requirements. This is for a couple to share so the need for hanging shirts, skirts, pants and trousers is maximised with 2x bays on the right. The bay on the left is for long hanging dresses, robes and the like, and only a small space is required. The shelves above the rails are suitable for shoes. Between the hanging bays a set of shelves and drawers makes the ideal divider and allows the rails to be attached at any height.

If you engaged the services of a cabinetmaker or wardrobe company the components would generally be made of coated MDF called Melamine. This is easy to clean and comes in a range of colours. The same material is used for kitchen carcases and bathroom vanities. Because I am aiming this project at you DIY guys I’ve chosen MDF to construct the wardrobe, as it is easier to work with. I have pre-cut all my components from 16mm MDF.

My suggestion would be for you to work out all the pieces you require and get them cut by a joiner, preferably by a C and C machine. The accuracy of the cutting will make assembly quick and reasonably hassle free.

Material:

16mm MDF cut to size (components)

6mm MDF cut to size (draw bottom)

6mm MDF cut to size (cabinet back)

Wardrobe rail x 2.4m

Wardrobe rail sockets x 3 sets

Draw runners (450mmlong) x 5 sets

40mm x 8 gauge screws

32mm x 8 gauge screws

65mm x 8 gauge screws

16mm x 6 gauge screws

Tools:

Level

Hammer

Ruler

Tape measure

Battery drill 2 and 3mm drill bits

Impact driver – square or Pozi drive bit

Hacksaw

T square or rafter square

Pencil

Jigsaw

Step ladder

Circular saw / hand saw / drop saw

Draw and Shelf Cabinet:

My draw and shelf cabinet is set by the depth and width of the drawers. I’ve chosen 450mm drawer runners which means my drawers will finish at 450mm deep. To allow a little room my cabinet sides are cut to 470mm wide, 20mm more than the drawer depth. As I have a measure of 2700mm from floor to ceiling I have made my cabinet sides 2400mm high and this will allow a shelf to be fitted on top and a 300mm gap between the shelf and the ceiling. The width of the cabinet is determined by the width of the drawers. In this case I have 375mm wide drawers. Drawer runners require 25mm extra than the width of the drawer, so my internal cabinet width is 400mm. My shelves will set the width of the cabinet so these are cut 400mm wide.

To begin, align the cabinet sides side by side and flush each end. (fig. 1). The bottom of the cabinet below the first drawer should sit above the floor a little. I allow 50mm. Mark the position of the bottom shelf on the cabinet sides and square across using T square or rafter square. (Fig. 2).

Determine the positions for your drawer runners. My drawers are 150mm deep including the bottoms x4 and 80mm deep including the bottom x1. The first runners need to be approximately 10mm above the bottom. Then allow the depth of the drawer plus 30mm to the bottom of the next runner, my spacing between runners is 180mm (150mm + 30mm). (Fig. 3).

Each runner requires Three screws to fix to cabinet sides. Pre-drill for all screws using 2mm drill bit.

Mark out for shelves above drawers and pre-drill three holes to hold each shelf in the cabinet sides. (Fig. 4).

Holes, made with the 3mm drill, should be at least 30mm in from edge of cabinet sides to avoid splitting shelves. (Fig. 5).

The top shelf that will fit wall to wall above the cabinet is 200mm wide. As the cabinet is 470mm wide I have marked and cut an angle so that the cabinet sides narrow at the top to allow for this. (Fig. 6).

As I want to cabinet to fit hard back to the wall I need to cut the cabinet sides to allow for the skirting board. This is done by marking and cutting a template. (Fig. 7 - 9).

Transfer the template to the cabinet sides and cut out using the jigsaw.          (Fig. 10-11).

Assembly:

Layout the drawer runners, there are lefts and rights, and screw to cabinet sides using 16 x 6 gauge screws into pre-drilled holes. (Fig. 12).

Use a hand screwdriver and be careful not to over tighten. Make sure all drawer runners are screwed on and ready for shelves. (Fig. 13).

The cabinet sides are a mirror image of each other. (Fig. 14).

Attach toe kick to cabinet bottom then attach to cabinet side. Note: It is cut short so as not to hit skirting when fitted. (Fig. 15-16).

Then flip the cabinet side upright and fix the shelves through pre-drilled holes. (Fig. 17-18).

Pre-drill into the shelves using the 3mm drill bit to prevent splitting. (Fig. 19).

Flip the cabinet onto its side with shelves standing vertical and fit the other cabinet side to shelves. (Fig. 20-21).

Lay the cabinet face down to fit 6mm back. (Fig. 22).

The back ensures the cabinet is square and stable. The back is best cut 2mm narrower than the width of the cabinet. This makes it easy to feel the edges and be accurate when attaching the back. Use 32mm 8 gauge screws to fix at approximately 30mm apart. (Fig. 23).

Wardrobe Rails:

The sockets to hold wardrobe-hanging rails can be fitted to the cabinet at this stage. Use a shirt on a hanger to determine the position. (Fig. 24).

For a 600mm deep wardrobe the rail should be 300mm from the back. (Fig. 25). For double hanging allow a minimum of 1000mm between rails. For single long hanging garments 1600mm is allowed.

Before fitting the cabinet to the wardrobe space level a datum line around the wardrobe. (Fig. 26).

This line can be at any height and allows you to measure accurately for shelves and rail fixings. The cabinet needs to be secured to a stud or solid framing behind the plasterboard. Determine where you will be fixing the cabinet to the wall by using a stud finder or tap method to find solid fixing points. Fit cabinet and screw to wall. (Fig. 27-28).

Drawers:

With the cabinet fitted my assembly table is clear to construct the drawers. Each drawer has five components, two sides, a front, a back and a bottom. The sides screw onto the front and the back and require pre-drilled 3mm holes in each end before attaching. (Fig. 29-31).

The drawer bottom is fitted and ensures the drawer is square. (Fig. 32).

Fir the runners to the bottom of the drawers, the wheels of the runners go to the back of the drawer. (Fig. 33).

Drawers can be fitted at this stage. (Fig. 34).

Note: The cabinet internal measurement of 400mm and the drawer measurement of 375mm. (Fig. 35-36).

As there is no framing to hold the rail sockets or a shelf, a full width cleat is required to preform these tasks. (Fig. 37).

This is screwed into the corner studs using 65mm 8 gauge screws. To determine the height measure from the socket on the cabinet to the datum line and copy to side wall for all the rails and shelves. (Fig. 38).

Screw the shelves to the cabinet sides and to the cleats. (Fig. 39).

With all the shelves in place measure the length of the rails and cut using the track saw. (Fig. 40-41).

Fit the rails and you are done. (Fig. 42-43).

A coat or two of acrylic polyurethane can be applied to all surfaces. It’s best to do this before fitting to keep your surfaces clean and make sure they’re easy to clean.

Happy building, and remember to pre-drill before you screw, measure twice and cut once and if at first you don’t succeed get a professional in.

Cheers,

Cocksy.

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

Ah, summer. It’s the season for barbeques and beers on the deck. Maybe your deck features the latest nine piece outdoor suite? Or does it have a rustic table and bench seats? But what if it had something a little more comfortable to sit or take a nap in? In this ‘how to’ I’ll give you the basic idea for an outdoor couch and show you how to make it rustic, shabby chic or a little nostalgic by using demolition Rimu from an old Villa kitchen. Take a look at the finished couch in this article by GoodHome design contributor Michelle Halford. She’s spruced it up and given it a touch of magic to show how it looks in a real outdoor setting.

The dimensions for my couch were set by the 800 x 800mm squabs that I already had. Three of these squabs dictate that my couch will be approximately 2700mm long and 900mm wide. This allows 150mm for each arm and 2400mm for the squabs.

Materials:

Rustic cladding - pallet or similar

150 x 25 fence palings 1.8m long (x12)

100 x 25 H3 rough sawn x 6.0m

90 x 45 H3.1 gauged K/D x 9.0m

8g x 50mm surefast screws S/S x 1 jar of 200

8g x 65mm surefast screws S/S x 1 jar of 100

1Hg x 100mm wood roofing screws x 12

10g x 100mm S/S screws x 12

Tools:

Battery drill

Battery impact driver

Tape

Ruler

Square

Pencil

Hammer

Drop saw or circular saw

Clamps

Handsaw

3mm drill

Driver bit / square or pozi

Driver bit to suit 14g screws

Nail gun (brad gun)

Galvanised nails to suit

There are four components to the couch with two arms, the base, and the back. The framework for these will need to be accurate even if the cladding is a little rough and rustic.

Cutting list:

Arms from 150 x 25 fence palings.

1.     Legs – 575 x 150 cut 4

2.     Top and bolt rail – 850 x 150 cut 4

3.     Centre rail – 850 x 75 cut 2 (rip paling in half)

4.     Spacer – 250 x 100 cut 2

Base from 90 x 45 H3.1 KD

1.     2 at 2410

2.     3 at 670

Slats from 150 x 25 Fence Palings.

1.     760 x 150 cut 11

Back from 100 x 25 (rails)

2.     2 at 2410mm

3.     2 at 290mm

From 90 x 45

1.     2 at 290mm

Construction:

1.     Arm Frame:

Each arm is put together as per exploded view. (Fig. 1).

Legs (575 long) need to be marked 50mm up from the bottom, this is the position for the bottom rail. (Fig. 2).

Square a line across and pre drill 2 x holes. (Fig. 3-4). 

Screw bottom rail to legs using 65mm screws. (Fig. 5).

Then screw top rail in between legs flush to the top. (Fig. 6).

Using a spacer mark the position for centre rail, pre drill and screw into place. (Fig. 7-8).

Fix spacer to one end to leg and top rail. (Fig. 9).

Framework for one arm completed. (Fig. 10).

Now construct the second arm the same but fir the spacer at opposite end of arm to mirror arm 1.

2.     Arm Cladding:

Clad arm with old rustic timber. Pallet wood is a good cheap way to achieve the rustic look although it hasn’t been treated so it won’t last outside for too many years. Start by cladding at the top and front of the arms, ensure the cladding hangs over the frame enough to cover the cladding to be fixed to the sides of the arms. (Fig. 11).

I have used 3 pieces of my Rimu. The middle one is ripped to fir the gap remaining. (Fig. 12).

Measure and cut the cladding for both sides of the arms. The cladding fixed to the rail (the inside of the arm) is approximately 350mm long and the cladding fixed to the outside of arm is approximately 560mm long leaving it 15mm short of the legs. Use a piece of cladding on edge as a spacer to create a slatted look. (Fig. 13).

Finished arm. (Fig. 14).

I used a 32mm nail in a Paslode Brad Gun. A 40mm galvanised jolt head would be the alternative.

3.     Base Frame

The base is constructed using the five pieces of 90 x 45 pre cut as per cutting list. Place the two 2410mm rails together and measure to halfway. (Fig. 15).

Mark and square across at this point. Pre drill the rails with 2 x holes at all ends and 2 x holes for centre. (Fig. 16-17).

Layout and screw together. (Fig. 18-19).

Use 10g x 100mm screws. Base together. (Fig. 20).

4.     Back Frame

The back needs to be constructed similar to the base but with 2 x 90 x 45 to ends and 2 x 100 x 25 evenly spaced between. Because it’s only a narrow frame it’s easier to construct standing up. (Fig. 21-22).

Screw one side and then flip over and screw the other. Use 65mm screws to fix all components. (Fig. 23).

5.     Cladding the back

Clad the back as per the arms with spaces between slats. Cap the top of the back but leave the ends uncapped until after assembly. (Fig. 24).

6.     Assembly

Now your four components are ready for assembly. Clamp a fence paling to the inside of the arm at 350mm from the top. (Fig. 25-26). 

This is to sit the base on and ensure it is the right height. (Fig. 27).

Using 14 gauge x 10mm screws, screw base to arm, ensure it is 30mm back from the front of the arm. (Fig. 28-30).

Repeat to screw base to other arm. To fit the back, mark 180mm up from the bottom of the back and clamp a block of wood above the mark, repeat for the other end. (Fig. 31-33).

The blocks will rest on the arms and make it easy to screw together. (Fig. 34-35).

Remove clamps and measure and cut end caps to fit the back. (Fig. 36).

Lay out 150 x 25 slats on the base. (Fig. 37).

Ensure you have a slat in a position to catch the edge of the squabs. Screw in place using 2 x 50mm S/S screws at each end of each slat. (Fig. 38-39).

Nearly there. (Fig. 40). 

Tip onto the back and attach rustic slats to the front of the base slate approx. 150mm long. (Fig. 41).

Place slats as per arms and back. Tip upright and that is it. (Fig. 42-43).  

Add cushions and rest for a while. (Fig. 44).

Cheers,

Cocksy

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

If you are determined to buy your first home but are struggling to afford a house close to town you have two fundamental options:

• Buy an apartment in the city or fringe suburbs, or
  
• Buy a house in the more distant suburbs and cope with a lengthy commute.
  

Either one puts you on the first rung of the property ladder.

For many, the preference will be to buy a house out of town and it does have a number of benefits:

• Houses have traditionally increased greater in value over time than apartments.
  
• The majority of a home’s value is in the land, apartments have very little land;
  
• As cities expand and radiate outwards so do values. Buying in a cheap, outlying suburb now may pay good dividends in the near future.
  
• A three-bedroom house on a generous section will accommodate you for longer as your family grows, but a one-bedroom apartment in town maybe inadequate in a year or two.
  

The other piece of good news for first-time buyers looking at houses, is the option to use their Kiwi Saver funds for the deposit (if they have been saving for at least three years) and they may only require a 10% deposit. The deposit required for an apartment is likely to be higher.

But what if you go ahead and buy out of town, set your alarm an hour earlier and embrace the commute, only to discover after a year that this is not the life for you? You miss living in town, socialising after work and the amenities city life has to offer.

Selling up after just a year is unlikely to realise a significant gain, especially if you have to pay real estate agency fees, and then you are out of the property market again. Well, you do have the option of renting out the house out of town (rental yields in the outer suburbs are often strong), moving back to the city and renting yourselves.

Any shortfall between rental income and your outgoings, including the loan repayments, will provide tax credits against your income and any necessary top-up that you need to make could be viewed as an enforced savings plan. However, you are still in the property market and eligible to benefit from any future value gains.  

Certainly it’s worth talking to your bank or mortgage broker about what could work for you.

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

Getting your home ready to sell can be be a daunting task, especially when there is pressure to move your property quickly, all while getting the highest price. The good news is there are some easy, affordable ways to help make your home appeal to potential buyers. I’ve broken them down into 6 steps.

1. Declutter

Do a thorough audit of your home, and dispose of as much as possible. Give items to charities such as hospice and sell items on Trade Me or hold a garage sale. If necessary, hire a bin. Resist the urge to store things on site, as this will make your home appear cluttered and smaller in size. Instead, move things to a storage container, including any excess furniture, clothing, kids toys etc. Keep the interior styling simple and understated, with a carefully curated selection of furniture pieces and items on display.

2. Depersonalise

In the process of paring things back, be sure to minimize personal items, as these can distract buyers. If the rooms are filled with personal photos, quirky items and sentimental treasures buyers will struggle to see themselves in your house.

3. Clean, Paint and Revive

Walls and floors are two areas that when given a refresh will make a huge difference to the overall look of your home. A fresh coat of paint will create a clean, welcoming space. In terms of colour, stick with neutrals or whites as these will be favourable to the masses. Even if your current paint work is relatively new, be sure to tidy up any scuffs and wear marks. For further advice on both neutral paint colours and floor revival, check out these recent BNZ GoodHome articles here and here.

4. Major Renovations Versus Minor Updates

Decide where you would like to spend money. Making minor updates to the kitchen and bathroom will make your house more marketable and appealing. Even just a few key changes such as replacing the shower curtain, light fitting or appliances will create impact. Major renovations can be a great way to make your home more desirable to buyers but they can be costly. Spending more money ideally means you will get more back, but be careful not to overcapitalise.

5. Create Street Appeal

First impressions count so as well as focusing on the interior, ensure your property is looking attractive from the outside. Get rid of cobwebs, dust and dirty pavers by water blasting the exterior, keep the lawns mowed, hedge trimmed and gardens tidy.  Also pay attention to anything that needs repairing or replacing, such as a worn out old mailbox or a broken window.

6. Bring Things In

If you find that after decluttering and updating your home you don’t quite have what is needed to bring your home up to scratch, you may want to look at bringing in some additional furniture or homewares. This is where a professional home stager can help.

Images: Carrical House by Rob Mills Architects and Interior Designers

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

In most households, the laundry is always in use, yet it can easily be neglected in terms of design, layout and finishing touches. Whether large or small, creating a space that is functional, efficient and also comfortable will not only make the laundry chores more manageable, you may actually start to enjoy them! To help you make the most out of your space, I’ve put together some important tips to consider.  

1. Placement of the laundry. For those who are renovating, the laundry should ideally be placed at the back door so that you can easily access the clothesline.

2. Drying Racks. In addition to, or even as an alternative to using an outdoor clothesline, you may choose to install an indoor drying rack. Integrated systems such as a DIY hanging rod or pull out drying rack are great for small spaces. For stylish free-standing options, I recommend checking out the selection at Father Rabbit.

3. Positioning of Appliances. In order to easily transfer wet clothes from washer to dryer, stack the appliances or place them side by side. Front-loading machines can be stacked with a dryer to save floor space, or topped with a counter for a work space. If you have front loading washers and dryers, consider raising them off the floor, to avoid having to crouch down to load and unload clothes.

4. Storage. Store detergents and other laundry essentials in closed cabinets or open shelving above or next to the appliances. For extra ease and efficiency, I recommend storing frequently used items on an open shelf, placed at an easily reached height. Higher shelves can be reserved for occasionally used items. The benefit of having open shelving is you will be more likely to keep things in a neat and orderly fashion because they will be on display.

5. Baskets. When designing a laundry room, it’s important to allow enough space in front of the appliances to easily fill and empty them. Avoid clutter and the temptation to leave soiled clothes on the floor by using baskets. Stack them in an orderly arrangement, but ensure they are still within easy reaching distance of the appliances. For basket, storage and other laundry orgnisation ideas and products take a look here and here.

6. Good lighting. Ensure the lighting in your laundry is efficient for intended tasks. Windows which allow both natural light and air to flow through will also improve and uplift the space.

7. Integrate an ironing centre. If you have the luxury of planning ahead, look at incorporating a recessed system that fits in the space right between your wall studs. These allow more space so you can store your iron or even include a garment hanger. Plus, an electrician can run electricity right into the unit for an iron and/or a work light. Alternatively, if you have less space consider a simple wall-mounted ironing board.

8.The Sink. A deep sink is ideal for laundry chores and can even double as a pet washing station. Ensure however that it is sufficiently elevated.

9. Work bench/surface. Install a work surface for sorting, treating, and folding clothes. With front-loading appliances placed side by side, a counter on top of the machines is an easy way to save space. A counter above the machines also stops clothes from falling in and behind the washer or dryer.

10. Decor and Finishing Touches.If you are renovating, create cohesion with the rest of the home by bringing in some of the same elements, such as colour palette or tiles. Choose stylish storage options (as suggested above) and add some finishing touches such as artworks or fresh flowers.  

Images: 01| 02 | 03 | 04

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

Table loans

Most people choose this type of mortgage. Your regular repayments are the same each week, fortnight or month, unless your interest rate changes.

Here’s how it works

Every repayment includes a combination of interest and principal. At first, your repayments comprise mostly of interest but as the amount you still owe begins to decrease, your regular repayment will include less interest and repay more of the principal (the amount you borrowed). Most of your later mortgage repayments go towards paying back the principal.

With a table loan you can choose a fixed or a floating interest rate. And with most lenders you can select a term (how long you’ll take to repay the loan) of up to 30 years.

Note: Based on an average fixed term of around 2.5 years, borrowers will likely refix 12 times over a 30 year mortgage.

Revolving credit

Where table loans are great for regular incomes, revolving credit loans are more flexible and can work better for people whose income tends to be more sporadic.

They operate like a large overdraft where all your pay goes into the account, and all your bills and such come out of it up to a predetermined limit. Revolving credit loans require discipline to make them work to your advantage since there are no set repayments. For this reason, some people prefer to set a credit limit that gradually reduces over time.

In addition to offering great flexibility, because all your money goes into your loan account each payday, it’s acting as one big home loan repayment and as such can result in you paying less interest over time.

Offsetting

An offset loan works in much the same way as a table loan in that you have set repayments to make weekly, fortnightly or monthly. The cool part is in the way an offset loan also lets you save in interest costs by subtracting any money you have sitting in your accounts from the total amount owing on your loan when calculating interest. Because banks calculate interest daily, this means you’re paying interest on a smaller amount — even if the money is only in there for a day or two, it all counts. Each bank will operate an offset loan with slight differences, however, some, like BNZ, will even let you group the accounts of your family to help offset an even larger amount.

Interest only

An interest only loan isn’t a long term option— you’d never pay the home loan off. However, they can be a good short term choice if you need extra money in the hand right now.

You’d pay just the interest portion of your loan for a period of time and none of the principal. You’ll end up paying more interest in the long run, but free up cash when you need it most. People typically switch back to principal and interest payments once they’ve done what they need to with the interest only loan.

Non-table

A less common type of loan is a non-table or ‘straight line’ loan. With these you’ll repay a constant amount of your principal each week/month/fortnight for the life of the loan.This is different from a table loan where the amount of principal paid starts off small and gets larger. While the interest portion of your non-table loan payment starts off large, over time it decreases in a ‘straight line’ (hence the name). Sounds great, right? Well, yes, however, the downside is that because the repayment starts off much higher, and decreases, you don’t make regular payments each week, fortnight or month.

Talk to the experts

Picking the right loan type can be tricky for old hands let alone first home buyers, so make the most of the expertise at BNZ and contact us here or  talk to us in store to find out which loan type — or mix of different loan types — is best suited to how you like to structure your money.

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This information is for general information purposes only. To the extent that it contains financial advice, it does not take into account your particular financial situation or goals. BNZ recommends that you seek advice specific to your circumstances from your financial adviser.

The following tips will help you get a good indication of how much or how little you’ll need to spend on your new property should you sign on the dotted line.

The roof over your head needs to be a good one

• It can be costly to replace or even patch a roof, so be sure to check its condition. Look for signs of leaks in the attic/roof space and ask when the roof was last replaced.
• Keep an eye out for rotten wood as this may be an indication that renovations will be required and these costs will need to be built into your budget.
• If you can spot any cracks in the guttering the property may not have good drainage. If you can, pop back on a rainy day so you can see how the guttering and roof perform, and that the property drains quickly.
• During the 1990s, a number of homes were built that could not withstand New Zealand weather conditions, so check that the property you are viewing is not one of them. There are a range of claddings associated with leaky homes so visit www.consumerbuild.org.nz for all the information.

Room by room

• In each room there will be specific things to check and some rooms will score higher than others. The kitchen might be celebrity chef worthy, while the bathroom is bordering on a health hazard. There will always be the need to compromise, but make sure you’re not compromising on key features that could end up costing you in the long term. Have a clear idea of what upgrades are urgent and necessary versus nice-to-have.
• Check the wiring and ask how recently it’s been replaced. Look out for tell tale signs of mold. Kitchens can be particularly expensive to renovate so keep an eye out for anything that might be faulty. Check whether your own appliances will fit if you’re bringing them with you.
• In bathrooms, turn on the taps, turn on the shower, and flush the toilet. Lack of water pressure can indicate an issue with the property’s water heater. If you notice odd noises or strange smells, they could be a sign of plumbing problems. Check for bubbling paint or cracks which could mean water damage or dampness.

A warm home is a healthy home

A warm dry home is not just a nice-to-have, it’s essential for good health. Look at the insulation and note what kind of heating the house has. Is it positioned well in relation to the sun?  Are windows double glazed? EECA have a good checklist of things to keep to an eye out for.

Your checklist is your friend

It’s hard to keep track of all the things you need to check, especially when you’re seeing one property after another, so keep a list. This handy checklist is useful to take with you on the open home trail so you can rate the rooms and make notes.

An inquisitive mind will pay dividends

Ask questions: This is a good place to get ideas of questions to ask, as well as other checks to carry out when you’re at open homes. It’s also a good idea to have houses checked over by a professional builder - there is a small cost involved, but it could end up saving you more down the track.

Happy house hunting!

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This information is for general information purposes only. To the extent that it contains financial advice, it does not take into account your particular financial situation or goals. BNZ recommends that you seek advice specific to your circumstances from your financial adviser.

In the lead up to summer last year I wrote this article on getting ready for outdoor living. In addition to choosing the right furniture, I talked about creating a comfortable and stylish outdoor room by incorporating a sofa into your space. In this issue I’m going to give you some different options, including a fantastic DIY alternative that Cocksy has built.

Design Warehouse in Auckland have an extensive selection of outdoor sofas. These include modular options which work well in that they allow you to reconfigure seating to suit the occasion. They also have several collections which are made from both reclaimed and distressed Teak. The beautiful designs are contemporary with a rustic edge, making them well suited to both new and older, weathered decks and outdoor areas.

Amalfi Teak Collection

Platform Collection

For those who love colour, Auckland-based outdoor furniture company Jardin offer a range of products to brighten up your exterior space. Their primary brand is Fermob, the French outdoor furniture manufacturer that creates innovative, clever, practical and fun outdoor furniture. Check out their collection of lounge and casual pieces here.

Sixties Range

In addition to boutique stores, it’s also worth checking out some of the bigger chain stores, such as Harvey Norman, where I found this stylish option.

4-piece Outdoor Lounge Setting

For those whose budgets don’t stretch far enough for a new outdoor sofa, why not consider a DIY alternative? In this issue GoodHome contributor Cocksy shows you how to build your own beautiful, rustic style sofa. Perfect for creating a cosy and welcoming outdoor retreat, you’ll find step-by-step instructions here. Teaming up with the beautiful Auckland interiors store Indie Home Collective, I show you some styling ideas to complete the look.

These products can be purchased from Indie Home Collective, either in store at 51 Nuffield Street, Newmarket or online:

Edison Cushions (Diamond, Stripe & Kilim – 2 x sizes)

Milford Moss Stitch Cotton Throw - Natural Stone

Concrete Cube Stool/Table (2 placed side by side)

Retro Armchair – Black

Moroccan Bag with Leather Handle

The Beach People Round Towel – Paloma

Black Planter & Cactus – Purchase in store only

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

The term ‘home equity’ has become a bit of a buzz phrase.

Property values have increased around the country, and many New Zealand homeowners will be wondering what this all means for them. Let’s break it down simply.

What is home equity?

Home equity is essentially the total value of your home, minus what is owed to a lender. Most people purchase property by saving up a deposit (a share of the total cost of the property) and borrowing money (a home loan) from a bank or other lender to cover the rest, which is then paid off over an agreed period of time. Equity is what you’d walk away with if you sold up and paid off the lender.

The equity you have in your property could increase over time as you pay back what you’ve borrowed, or as the value of your property increases. Equity is an asset – think of it as the share of your property that you truly own.

It’s worth noting that the council capital value and the market value of a property are often different – the council valuation will remain the same for the duration of the 3-yearly revaluation cycle but the property market fluctuates regularly, and ultimately it’s the market that determines the true value of your home.

What is a CV and how does it affect my mortgage?

Capital value (CV) is the value assigned to a property by the council to calculate what share of the region’s rates the property owner must pay. CVs are based on the value of the land the property sits on, plus any ‘improvements’ made to that land – for example, a house. Usually, the higher the CV, the higher the rates.

CVs are typically ‘desktop reviews’ (not involving a valuer actually visiting your property), and look at surrounding properties and recent sales data to inform a change in value.

The council valuation of your home is important because it’s one of the factors a lender could take into account when determining the value they will lend against and ultimately how much you can borrow.

Why does equity matter?

In a nutshell, the more equity you hold, the better your position when it comes to negotiating with lenders, at the time of new borrowing

In October 2013, the Reserve Bank of New Zealand (RBNZ) put restrictions (LVR restrictions) on lending to potential homeowners who have a deposit of less than 20% of the value of the home they wanted to buy. For banks, these restrictions mean that only 10% of the bank’s lending for new home loans can be given to customers with a 20% deposit or less.

It’s a measure designed to support the stability of the financial system, but it can make it more difficult for borrowers to get a loan. Find out more here.

Could you get a better deal?

This is where it gets interesting. If the recent revaluations suggest you have a stronger equity position, you could renegotiate with your lender for a better rate at the time you apply for new or additional home lending.

The main thing to keep in mind is that banks are required to record the value of the property at the time the loan was originally taken out to work out how much capital they need to hold for the loan. Capital is money banks (and other businesses) set aside to ensure they can continue to function – in this case, it’s money that’s set aside in case a borrower cannot repay a loan. For every dollar the bank lends out, a certain amount of money needs to be set aside because there is a risk that the loan may not be repaid. The higher the risk, the more capital has to be set aside.

This affects the cost of lending (how much resource needs to go in to a loan) for banks and so they may be reluctant to alter the interest rate unless there has been some new lending or refinancing that allows them to use the “new” valuation.

If you’re thinking about taking advantage of your increased equity, it’s important to make sure that you have the ability to service (pay back) any extended or new lending you agree to. In this same vein, using your equity to reinvest in your asset (e.g. improving the value of your property via renovations) may be better than using It to making discretionary purchases like that flashy new car or boat that you’ve always wanted.

If you are interested to know more, get in touch with us. It doesn’t hurt to look into what your options are.

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This information is for general information purposes only. To the extent that it contains financial advice, it does not take into account your particular financial situation or goals. BNZ recommends that you seek advice specific to your circumstances from your financial adviser.

How do you find out which suburbs would be best for you to live in?

Home buyers are familiar with searching for homes on the Internet using real estate listing sites like Trade Me Property, Realestate.co.nz or any number of real estate agency websites.

Just enter the area, number of bedrooms, bathrooms, price, etc and click “Go.”

But how do you really know which suburbs you should be searching in? Which neighbourhoods should you be drawn towards and which should you avoid?

Hometopia has developed a new interactive property search engine - Suburb Sleuth - that does things differently. Buyers can now find which suburbs suit them best according to their lifestyle preferences:

• Region (N,S,E,W)
  
• Environment (rural, coastal, urban, etc)
  
• People (Families, singles, seniors, etc)
  
• Style of homes (character, modern, heritage, apartment)
  
• Quality of schools
  
• Access to shopping facilities
  
• Commute time
  
• Price range
  
• Hip factor
  

You just tick the boxes or adjust the sliders depending upon what factors are most important to you.

Suburb Sleuth’s custom algorithm then whirrs away quietly and, moments later, computes the top 10 suburbs that most closely suit your lifestyle criteria selections. You can then click on each of the suburbs and

• Check out homes currently for sale on Realestate.co.nz
• Find out local values and sales stats
• Download all you need to know about local schools, amenities and real estate trends

All for free.

Suburb Sleuth currently only covers the Auckland area but we have plans to extend the service to all of New Zealand’s cities in the coming months.

Try it out for yourself by clicking here: Suburb Sleuth, you might be surprised at the results.

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

The traditional thought is that summer is the best time to sell your home and that winter is the worst, but is that right?

Sales actually fluctuate less from season to season than most people think. Of course you have to forget the months of December and January when there is very little activity by buyers or sellers because of Christmas and summer holidays.

According to analysis by the Real Estate Institute of New Zealand, June to September (winter) show the lowest number of actual sales, but even then they are only down a maximum of 5% below the average. February to April (summer) is the most active period, with sales up to 17% higher than the average.

With supply and demand being the key considerations, what happens during the year in terms of homes coming on to the market and buyer viewing activity?

The numbers of would-be buyers viewing properties online varies very little from month to month. But new listings vary dramatically.

During summer, number of listings increase to 25% higher than average whilst buyer viewers increase only about 7%. So the competition for buyers is intense and they have a great choice of homes for sale. That can make it tough for sellers.

On the other hand, new listings typically drop about 15% below average during the winter months, but buyer numbers fall only very slightly. This can offer a comparative advantage for sellers and shouldn’t be overlooked.

It’s not just about selling your home of course, it’s about selling it at the very best price. Homes offered for sale during the sunnier months look their very best and often don’t betray their many shortcomings. Arguably more buyers might fall in love with them and offer higher prices during the summer because of that.

The decision about when is the best time to sell is a tricky one. Certainly you shouldn’t rule out winter, especially if you have a home that presents well all the year round. But if you have a home, gardens and pool area that transform themselves beautifully during the summer it will likely reward you to sell then.

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

A variety of reports are available to home buyers when they are house hunting. Here are four of the most helpful and some quick tips when reading them.

Keep reading

I love hearing your feedback and while I’m unable to answer all of your questions, I’ve picked out some that are frequently asked. 

Keep reading

One of the easiest ways to transform a room is with wallpaper, and with the growing number of styles on the market, the options are endless. Whatever design you choose; whether it be bold or subtle, covering one or all of your walls with wallpaper makes a statement. Because I draw so much of my inspiration from overseas (namely Scandinavia) I thought I’d start by showing you some of my favourites from that part of the world. I’ve then recommended some great local suppliers who are helping make these and other brands accessible down under. 

Keep reading

Stephen’s article got me thinking about the beauty of owning a house and making it your own. But the pitfalls and issues of an older home can be daunting.

My very first house was a flat fronted 1910 Villa. A central hallway with two front rooms off it led from the front door to a living room and another bedroom. Another door carried through to the lean to, with an all-original scullery, bathroom and kitchen. The back door led to a covered porch and outside toilet. The original long drop was, thankfully, long gone.

Keep reading

As much as I love fresh produce straight from the garden, when green thumbs were being painted I must’ve been in the fishing and watersports department. Not to say I can’t plant and look after a veggie garden, it’s just that I forget to water and weed on a regular basis. This results in poor crops and slugs and insects being well fed while I go hungry. But there’s that satisfaction and pride in serving a meal that includes fodder you’ve grown so I’m giving it another crack with a sure to succeed wicking garden – a self watering garden bed perfect for my inattentiveness.

Keep reading

How good is it to have a two car garage? Room for his and her vehicles, a work bench, tools, garden equipment, sporting paraphernalia, ahh. It’s the perfect storage solution, but only if it’s organised and looks somewhat tidy.

I’m a culprit of stacking things in a hurry with the intention of sorting it out later, but later never seems to come and soon everything is stacked, piled and inaccessible and where once there was room for two vehicles you might be lucky to squeeze in a motorcycle (or scooter).

So here’s a solution to storage using plywood, a few pieces of framing timber, some doweling and some timber for shelves.

Keep reading

Since the start of 2009 average house selling prices in Auckland have risen by almost 90%. In Christchurch the average gain has been near 40%, Wellington 6%. Average prices across the Waikato and Bay of Plenty have risen 14%, Taranaki 12%, Otago 18% and Southland 9%.

Keep reading

Despite some of the lowest mortgage interest rates since the 1960s, most New Zealanders are not taking advantage of the situation to pay off their mortgage faster.

Keep reading

Selling off-plan is common for new apartment buildings, terraced housing complexes and new subdivisions. There is a huge cash flow benefit to developers if they can sell some (or all) of their dwellings before they build them. Knowing they are sold means they can then raise funds to proceed to the next stage of the development.

Keep reading

We’ve all got an idea of what our ideal home looks like. Below are six types of homes that you are likely to come across on any New Zealand house-hunt. 

Keep reading

The entrance is the first place visitors see when they walk through the door. Having a functional, uncluttered space will not only make a great first impression, it will make your life easier and more manageable. Traditionally seen in older homes, especially villas, hallways speak of character and charm. They also provide a place for hooks and console tables, but depending on the size they can almost lend themselves to being an extra room to style. Even small hallways cannot be overlooked when it comes to interior styling. Depending on what pushes your buttons, whether it be clever storage or eye-catching elements, this list should give you some great ideas. 

Keep reading

Much like giving your interior a new coat of paint, reviving your flooring can make a huge difference to the overall look and feel of your home. If you have wooden floorboards, a sand and polish may be all that is needed to bring them back to life. If you are wanting to rip up old carpet or vinyl, get your floors lime washed or install brand new flooring, there are many things to consider. To help you with the process, I’ve put together a list of options and some handy tips.

Carpet

Clean, Replace or Remove? Carpet cleaning is a highly effective way of freshening up your home, however there are some instances where a carpet cleaner won’t quite cut it. As an alternative to cleaning or replacing the carpet, why not first see what’s underneath? You never know, you may end up unearthing a gem!

Floorboard Revival

If your floorboards are showing a little too much wear and tear, re-sand them. This video from Bunnings Warehouse teaches you how to sand timber floors yourself, including handy hints and tips on using the correct technique. Bear in mind that floor sanding equipment is heavy duty, industrial machinery. Should you have any doubts about sanding your own floors, I recommend employing a professional to carry out the work.

Different Finishes

Now that you have re-sanded, there are numerous options for finishes. For a fantastic guideline that covers how to Lime Wash, Oil, Soap Wash or Paint floorboards, Australian Design studio Triibe have recently put together a comprehensive Timber Floor Tip Sheet which you can download here.

New Flooring Options:

Timbers

Engineered Refinished Timber has a real timber surface but a manmade backing. They usually click or lock together and can be installed over a special underlay or directly stuck to your sub-floor. Finishes include stains and lime washing along with traditional polyurethane or the newer more environmental friendly water based polyurethanes. Note that timber flooring is likely to be one of the most expensive options you can consider, with native species being the most costly.

Tiles

Catering to all tastes and budgets, there are many options for floor tiles, allowing you to choose from different colours, textures, patterns and finishes. Not only for bathrooms and kitchens, tiles are designed to suit all areas of the home, including living rooms.

Laminates

Laminates have a natural wood look and come in a variety of colours and finishes. Offering the warmth, beauty and character of a natural wood floor without the hassle of marks and scratches, they are perfect for busy households with children and pets.

Vinyl

Today’s vinyl flooring is a far cry from the garish styles reminiscent of the 50’s and 60’s. Innovations have resulted in sleek and contemporary new designs, in a wide variety of patterns and textures. Imitation timber styles look more realistic than ever, allowing you to achieve the natural effect of timber at the fraction of the cost of real wood flooring. The same goes for imitation tile and stone vinyl, both of which have been modernised to look like the real thing.

Jacobsen Flooring

Jacobsen are tile experts - for projects large and small, indoors and out, renovations and new builds, they have the solution to suit your project and your budget.  View the product range here. 

Images: 01 | 02 | 03 | 04 | 05 | 06-07 | 08

We want to hear from you

GoodHome should be an enjoyable and worthwhile place to visit filled with information that helps you to be the smartest homeowner you can be. We want to hear about anything you found useful or anything you didn’t, and anything you want to see more of that would help make this the perfect site for you - email us at goodhome@bnz.co.nz

This article is intended as a general discussion only. BNZ recommends the recipient get independent advice. The views expressed are the writer’s own and do not necessarily represent those of BNZ or its related entities.  

Spring has sprung, there are things to be done and outside the place is a mess. New tools are needed to get everything washed, cut and weeded. The world cup is our only stress right now, and with all the games being on in the wee hours, there are no excuses to not get up and tidy up the outdoors in the sunshine.

In earlier posts I’ve given you all the info on what needs to be done. From washing the house and cleaning the gutters to trimming hedges and pruning trees. But now feels like a great time to invest in a tool or two to make these jobs easier and maybe even “enjoyable”.

Keep reading

New Zealand is one of very few countries in the developed world where even thinking about owning a holiday home is an option for ordinary folks. But there are a couple of things to think about.

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading

Keep reading